Christiana's Kitchen

Jack's French Toast

2012-01-18T09:59:00.000-06:00

Jack loves Nutella.

LOVES.

Maybe loves Nutella more than his mama. Hard to tell sometimes.

That boy would do anything for some of that creamy hazelnut infused chocolate spread: clean his room, take a shower, maybe even flush the toilet.

As much as we love good food in this house, Jack is our fickle eater. He'll eat salmon seven ways to Sunday but add some chicken into the rotation and he might fall out. "I'M CHICKENED OUT!", he'll wail. And he is most capricious at breakfast, turning up his cute nose at every offering. The cheese grits he adores with dinner make him recoil at breakfast. Scrambled eggs? "Whites only, please." English muffins (or 'animal smushmens' as we call them around here)? "Not feeling it, Mom."

Which brings me back to the Nutella. Offering French toast with Nutella on top makes him do a "I-just-won-the-lottery-and-they're-paying-me-in-Legos!" kind of dance. To which you might say, "Seriously woman? Chocolate for BREAKFAST?!"

Hear me out.

With one dish, I can get him to consume a whole slice of fiber-rich whole grain bread, two egg whites and a small glass of milk. All I have to give up in return is a TEASPOON of Nutella, which happens to cover the entire slice. That's enough stick-to-his-ribs good food so that he does not turn into a Gremlin in the middle of Mrs. Haley's math lesson but not so much sugar that he can't sit still.

WIN-WIN.

Until he decides he's all Nutella'ed out.
_______________________________
Jack's French Toast
serves one cute seven year old boy

Ingredients:

2 egg whites

1 teaspoon milk (or cream of half-and-half)

1/4 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1 slice whole grain bread
1 teaspoon Nutella*

Directions:
1) In a pie plate combine the egg whites, milk and vanilla. Whisk to blend. Add bread and flip several times to coat.
2) Heat a small non-stick skillet over medium-high heat.
3) Add prepared bread and brown on each side for 2-3 minutes. Remove to a plate and immediately spread with Nutella; the heat makes it easier to spread and reach every corner.
4) Serve with fresh cut fruit and a small glass of milk.

* We actually prefer the Whole Foods Market version, Cocoa Haze, made without partially hydrogenated oils. We just happen to think it tastes better too.

Taco Mama - Restaurant Showcase in Village Living

2011-12-06T13:11:00.000-06:00

Taco Mama: Restaurant Showcase

By CHRISTIANA ROUSSEL

Crestline Village residents have long been accustomed to slowing traffic on Church Street, but a new arrival on this strip has folks slowing down even more: Taco Mama.

Otey’s Tavern owner Will Haver has recently opened Taco Mama at 63 Church Street in the former Crestline Seafood location.

Although Otey’s specializes in fantastic burgers, beers and music, the idea of a small taco joint had been in Haver’s mind for years.

“There’s really nothing else like this in Birmingham,” he said. “We aim to please our friends and fellow Mountain Brook neighbors but hope the word will spread to other Birmingham residents.”

The menu is thoughtfully laid out with build-your-own options on one side and standard specialties on the other. Easy choices include any one of the burritos like the Cheezy Beef, the vegetarian Tree Hugger or seafood-filled Hippie. Tacos are smaller in size, meaning you can mix-and-match several varieties to create a meal: pork, chicken, steak or fish.

Diners looking to get creative can free-form their meal, customizing each layer in the process. Taco Mama recommends starting with “The Form,” or the base model – burrito, low-carb burrito bowl, nachos or tacos. Next, select the protein or “The Cornerstone” for your meal: veggie mix, chicken, pork, barbacoa, steak, grilled shrimp or flounder. Add one of five sauces, mild Ranchero to Blistered Tomato Habanero, and then you are ready for “The Particulars.” Choose any three to truly make the meal your own: cilantro-lime rice, pinto or black beans, sour cream, pico de gallo, lettuce, guacamole, tomatoes, onions, corn, jalapenos, grilled onions or cilantro. With this much to choose from, it is going to be hard to narrow down a favorite.

Will Haver is a busy man and pretty thorough when it comes to restaurant menus. To perfect his ideal Taco Mama taco bar offerings, he enlisted the help of longtime friend Tim Hontzas. Hontzas comes from a strong Greek family, many of whom are also in the restaurant business locally, so good eating is practically part of his DNA. But to round out that natural ability, for more than eight years he worked the kitchens of Big Bad Breakfast and City Grocery, owned by culinary-rockstar John Currence in Oxford, Miss.

“Today’s diners have more to choose from and they are savvy in what they really want,” Hontzas said. “Any restaurant can serve up jarred salsa or heat up commercially-made rice, but making each item from scratch is what sets Taco Mama apart.”

The menu is rounded out with salads and house-made dressings, chips and salsas, kids choices and desserts. It would be hard to ask for more from a little taqueria on the corner, but, just like those late night infomercials: “Wait! There’s more!” Taco Mama has a full bar, including what is soon to become a legendary margarita. Made only with fresh ingredients, it is sure to inspire a following all by itself. The restaurant also offers traditional Agua Frescas, sparkling waters enhanced with orange or cranberry juice. Very refreshing.

Haver is looking forward to the next few months as Taco Mama finds its groove and puts together the perfect neighborhood mix, even if his right hand man, Rodney Davis, will stay at the grill at Otey’s. “I haven’t found my ‘Rodney‘ for Taco Mama yet,” Haver said. “He’s really one-of-a-kind, and I wish I could clone him. But Taco Mama is unique. We make everything ourselves, from scratch, in-house.” Even the salsas? “Yes.” Even the tortillas for the burritos? “Yes. Most we’ll make with traditional corn but we can do flour ones too.”

So, while it might be cold outside right now, it is easy to take one look at Taco Mama and see yourself there, enjoying a relaxing meal with your favorite people. Those new roll-up garage doors Will installed up front are just begging to be opened to a warm spring evening. So, if the traffic starts to slow, just park the car and come inside. Come inside, order a margarita and enjoy the view.

Taco Mama

63 Church Street, Crestline

414-9314

www.TacoMamaOnLine.com

Sunday – Wednesday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m.

Thursday – Saturday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.

http://villagelivingonline.wordpress.com/2011/11/29/taco-mama-restaurant-showcase/

Serenbe in Taste of the South Magazine

2011-12-01T10:26:00.000-06:00

Whew! I purchased my first MacBookPro about a month ago and our love affair is still very new. I am learning all of the new things that this machine can do and can't wait to learn more. I am especially excited about how I can use the Mac to improve this blog. That said, I took a little time this morning to scan in my article on Serenbe that appeared last month in Taste of the South Magazine.
If you ever get the chance to visit Serenbe, one word: GO! It is a delightful spot, just outside of Atlanta. Check out the article below and tell me what you think. Better yet, let's just find a time to go there!

Best,
Christiana

Finding Religion: Jazz, Gumbo, and God

2011-11-28T09:45:00.000-06:00

FRIENDS:

I have been covered up with work in the past few months which is a terribly awesome situation to find oneself. I wanted to take this opportunity to update the blog on some of my favorite past stories.

Best!
Christiana

Posted on September 1, 2011

Finding religion

JAZZ, GUMBO, AND GOD

By Christiana D. Roussel

There is a communion of sorts that takes place when musicians gather together, combining their individual sounds. Notes, emanating from a variety of instruments each producing unique sounds that meld together, creating ditties, harmonies and masterpieces. I am not musically inclined, but I can testify to having been moved by music. More than once, I’ve considered the Beatles library and felt surely that God had a hand in putting John, Paul, George and Ringo together.

I was reminded of this sentiment this past Sunday at a screening of the film Live at Preservation Hall: A Louisiana Fairytale. Presented at the Carver Theater as part of the Sidewalk Film Festival, director Danny Clinch’s film documents a moment in the life of the revered musical institution on Peter Street in the French Quarter.

Members of the indie rock band My Morning Jacket collaborated with the gentlemen from the Hall, and this movie captures that brief union.

While God may have not been mentioned—frankly, I was too enthralled to recall specifically—there is no denying the comparisons to traditional religion:

Preservation Hall as hallowed church, the vintage microphone as altar, the swell of spirit not unlike that of a Baptist revival. It did not feel like a coincidence that the screening took place on a Sunday.

Watching the film, I was overcome with a feeling that life in the kitchen is not unlike what I was seeing on screen. The assembling of ingredients, the prep, thoughtful consideration and the application of heat all end in in a kind of alchemy. I’ve often quietly thought of the six-burner gas stove in my “big-girl kitchen” as an altar of sorts. I’ve supplicated over the cast-iron skillet and asked for divine intervention in creating the perfect roux (“Brown, dammit! Brown!”).

I was not the only one feeling this connection between great jazz and soul-satisfying food. There is a scene in the film which My Morning Jacket’s drummer, Patrick Hallahan, is in the kitchen of Preservation Hall creative director Ben Jaffe, asking to be taught how to make good rice. The guys from each musical group are taking a break from jamming to enjoy some traditional New Orleans culinary fare. Gathering in the small galley kitchen, they are making gumbo z’herbes (“gumbo zeb”).

Most folks outside of the Crescent City may not be familiar with this version of the Louisiana classic. Gumbo z’herbes draws on the West African influence in the region and uses a heaping variety of greens (beet tops, collards, kale, etc.) to round out the dish. It is a labor-intensive recipe that will have you praying over the pot. Not always a vegetarian dish, the greens provide a cost-effective way to make a little meat in the pot go a long way. Served over rice, the pot might even be enough to serve the members of two collaborating musical groups.

The film goes back to Preservation Hall where the guys are finishing up their performance. Like that Southern revival, the show went on way longer that anyone had planned—4 a.m., by some accounts. The concert ends with something akin to the ecclesiastical recessional: the revered second line. The band members stream out into the streets of the Quarter, still playing their respective instruments, the congregation/ audience joyfully tailing behind, dancing all the way. I can testify that everyone at the Carver Theater that afternoon was moved by the same spirit and wished they too could fall right in line.

There are almost as many versions of this recipe as there are cooks in New Orleans.

I like this version:

Gumbo Z’Herbes (adapted from Susan Spicer’s Crescent City Cooking, published by Alfred A. Knopf, 2007) Serves 10

Ingredients:

½ cup vegetable oil

½ cup flour

2 medium yellow onions, chopped

2 green bell peppers, seeded and chopped

4 stalks celery, chopped 2 medium turnips, peeled and chopped into

½” cubes

1 cup chopped green onions (white and light green parts only)

2-3 cloves garlic, minced 6 cups washed, dried and chopped greens (use a mixture of turnip greens, kale, spinach, chard, carrot or beet tops, etc.)

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme leaves

8 cups chicken stock, warmed

2 bay leaves

1 teaspoon file powder

Directions:

1. In a large heavy pot over medium-high heat, heat the oil until almost smoking. Slowly whisk in the flour; continue whisking until the flour is cooked, forming a roux. The color should be like that of peanut butter. This might take longer than you think, so be patient.

2. Add the onions, bell pepper, celery, turnips, green onions and garlic. Stir to coat, about 5 minutes.

3. Add the greens, stir and cook for about 10 more minutes, or until they are wilted. Add the thyme and 2 cups chicken stock. Bring to a boil, add the remaining chicken stock and bay leaves, reduce heat and simmer for one hour.

Remove from heat and slowly add the file powder to thicken the gumbo. Season to taste with salt, pepper and hot sauce. Serve over hot white rice.

Christiana Roussel lives in Crestline and is a lover of all things food-related. You can follow her culinary musings online at ChristianasKitchen.com or on Facebook (ChristianasKitchen) or Twitter (Christiana40).

http://bhamweekly.com/birmingham/article-2536-finding-religion.html

Ollie Irene

2011-10-08T22:03:00.000-05:00

http://villagelivingonline.wordpress.com/2011/09/30/ollie-irene-restaurant-showcase

Ollie Irene is one my favorite restaurants and I am delighted that the Birmingham Foodie Book Club will be meeting there on Tuesday night, to discuss Gabrielle Hamilton's Blood Bones & Butter. Join us!

The Next Chapter

2011-07-15T18:19:00.000-05:00

Sometimes what you read in the paper is not the whole story.
Case in point, my article in this week's copy of Birmingham Weekly.
Due to time and space constrictions, a little bit had to be cut from the piece, which I totally understand.
While the story printed accurately depicts the subject, Church Street Coffee and Books, there is so much more to this lovely little spot.
For one thing, co-owner Cal Morris' wife Heather makes the most incredible baked goods. She is proudly devoted to using top-notch ingredients, eschewing anything fake, which results in melt-in-your mouth scones, moist crumb cake and a chocolate Kahlua cake that is known as "The Infamous." Not sold in the store, but with just as much of a following, are Heather's wedding cakes. Rumor is, they've been known to inspire proposals, they are THAT good.

Heather's flourless chocolate torte, spice cake, and The Infamous Chocolate Kahlua cake

In addition to the space downstairs that regulars are familiar with, is a second floor that will later be developed and finished out. With lots of natural light, this area is quieter and more suited to tucking in with a book or hammering out a novel on your laptop.

But the most important aspect that should be conveyed about this "new" spot is the people. Cal, Heather, Carrie and their crew have a genuine desire to give as much back to the community as they get. They know their customers and take the time to learn what this neighborhood craves. Residents can sniff out a phony from ten paces but these folks are the real deal. Everything about Church Street Coffee and Books is thoughtful and considered and I encourage you to check it out.

And what's more? I don't even really drink coffee that often!

XO,
Christiana
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The next chapter

FORMER STARBUCKS LOCATION EMERGES AS LOCALLY FOCUSED COFFEE AND BOOK SHOP
By Christiana D. Roussel

Starbucks locations are as ubiquitous as Alabama mosquitoes these days. In our increasingly homogeneous culinary retail landscape, anomalies must be exceptional to succeed. After all, Starbucks is doing something that a whole lot of people like: producing consistent, if predictable, coffee-based products in familiar and hospitable settings.

So imagine the surprise I felt earlier this spring when it was announced that the Starbucks location in Crestline Village would be closing. Not to worry caffeine-addicts, Crestline Starbucks manager Cal Morris recognized the fact that there was still a market for a coffee establishment in the area and wanted to find a way to preserve his way of life on the corner of Church Street and Euclid Avenue. Having overseen the store’s operations for more than 8 years, Morris really knows the neighborhood and his customers, his friends. He just couldn’t imagine not seeing those people every day. Besides, he knew the financials enough to know the location as a coffee shop was a success.

He took a leap of faith, quit Starbucks, took over the lease, and created Church Street Coffee and Books.

Morris is not alone in this venture. In addition to a steady crew of other former Starbucks team members and coffee-shop veterans, he has Carrie Rollwagon as a partner.

A former Starbucks alumna herself, Rollwagon also experienced great success as the book buyer for the former Jonathan Benton Booksellers in Mountain Brook Village. She shares a keen sense of what makes this community tick, both in a cup and on the printed page. “Mountain Brook, as a whole, values education and reading,” Rollwagon says. “Residents value buying locally. This is a great fit for the community.” Morris and Rollwagon want the store’s inventory and environment to be customer-driven.

Inside Church Street Coffee and Books, Rollwagon’s selections fill a few choice tall towers and book covers serve as artwork, set in shallow Tudor-style wainscoting. A special nook was carved out for younger patrons where they can hole up with books all their own. Rollwagon also has ideas for book clubs and story-times, and is developing a way to offer eBooks.

Décor and layout are only part of this transformation. The real question is this: how is the coffee? Fortunately, Birmingham is home to an incredible artisanal coffee-roaster in Primavera Coffee Roasters. This three-person outfit is headquartered just behind Miss Myra’s Barbecue in Cahaba Heights and consistently produces hand-crafted coffee. Their offerings are seasonal, and their batches are smaller than those of commercial chains. Just like a tomato picked at its peak from your garden tastes infinitely better than the one picked green in Florida, ethylene gassed to ripen and sold in a Styrofoam container, Primavera coffee benefits from being harvested when ripe and has more complex flavor profiles.

“Our number one priority is getting the coffee right,” Morris says. Brett Burton of Primavera Coffee Roasters adds, “We trained everyone making coffee at Church Street. When you order an espresso at a commercial outfit, the barista presses a button on the super-automatic and the cup is filled to the calibrations of the machine.”

Burton trained Church Street baristas on creating the perfect espresso by hand “grinding a specific amount of coffee, tamping it by hand, watching the flow rate and color. These are the skills needed in creating artisanal coffee-drinks. Morris has a world-class grinder and espresso machine, and they make great coffee.

What about those customers who have been trained to order a drinks like the “doubleshot-venti-caramel-machiatto-no-foam-low fat-room-for-cream cup”? Morris and his team share a giggle. One of the most popular drinks at the former Starbucks location was a sugar-free vanilla-non-fat latte. Some customers bristled at trying to remember the lengthy title, others felt emasculated by uttering the name. To make things easy, they just started calling it “The Bob.”

Named after no one in particular, it was just The Bob. Regulars felt comfortable ordering it and, everyone knew what it was. In Crestline. Not so at the other myriad Starbucks locations. They were confused in Vestavia Hills, confounded in Trussville, stumped in Hoover. So The Bob is definitely on the new menu. Customers can easily ask for a specialty drink or just a regular cuppa.

Church Street Coffee and Books appreciates its connection to the neighborhood and strives to be just what its friends and neighbors want and need. They’ve just opened the doors for business this past week and plan to be open daily from 6 a.m. to 10 p.m. Offering free wi-fi, Morris, Rollwagon and their crew are eager to have their friends back in to see them. Comments and feedback are encouraged so this little spot on the corner can once again be the neighborhood coffee shop everyone knows and loves. People may not always like change, but this seems to be one that’s for the better.

Food Memoirs I Adore

2011-06-17T12:05:00.001-05:00

The following post is excerpted from this week's Local Dish column in Birmingham Weekly. ENJOY!
____________________________________________________________________________

Devouring Their Work

For Birmingham Weekly

I have a confession to make: I cheated on my husband. And my children.
I snuck off with Gabrielle Hamilton all last weekend, not caring who found out.

Okay, so it is not in the conventional way one speaks of philandering. As chef/owner of the New York City eatery, Prune, Ms. Hamilton has written an all-consuming memoir called "Blood, Bones & Butter: The Inadvertent Education of a Restaurant Chef". There is no other genre of writing that sucks me in more than that of the food memoir. I am swallowed whole, abandoning my present world. For years, I've consumed so many of these titles and yet, Ms. Hamilton’s is simply the best. Ever. I found myself sneaking off to my bedroom, holing up to devour chapters at a time. I let the kids play Wii for hours, 'forced' them to nap, cajoled them into taking the dogs for a walk around the block, let them loll in the bathtub -- just to spend time with this story.

You see, not only is Ms. Hamilton an accomplished cook, she holds an MFA in fiction writing from the University of Michigan. She spent more than five years hammering out "Blood, Bones and Butter", which begins with the story of being abandoned at age 12 (along with one of her four siblings) by her mercurial parents who decided they no longer had the energy for marriage or parenting. She learns to cook for herself, find a way to make money, and even graduate from high school at age sixteen. At the very core of her soul is a desire to self-sustain through endless hard work: working double- and triple-shifts in catering kitchens, 'vacationing' by cooking for hundreds at summer camp, holing up in a makeshift beachside yurt in Greece after serving locals all day in a tiny cafe. At 34, serendipity and naïveté lead her to open her first restaurant, Prune, a nickname given to her, oddly enough, by her own mother.

Her story continues for another couple hundred pages, and is remarkable for not only its content but its prose. There are passages where it is obvious she can cuss like a sailor but does not need to stoop to that level to make herself heard and understood. And as I stole another few pages on a visit to the loo, it dawned on me that this book is like the female version of Anthony Bourdain's early memoir, "Kitchen Confidential". Both authors work that kitchen scene in an all-out balls-to-the wall fashion. They demand excellence from everyone in the crew and are verbal in accepting nothing less.

And this is what the food memoir does best: transport you to another place and time for a short while. A place where you can sneak a peek into the lives of others you admire; walk in their shoes, grimace at their wounds and missteps, revel in their successes. For between these pages, I lose my WASP-y self – the wife and mother of two children and three dogs who requires eight hours of sleep in a climate-controlled environment and a spacious hot shower upon waking. I can lose track of this current earnest life, while soaking myself into the skin of others.

After reading Jacques Pepin's memoir, "The Apprentice: My Life in the Kitchen", I can feign knowing what it is like to cook for Charles de Gaulle , turn down working in Kennedy's White House and opt instead for the opportunity to revamp the restaurants of the Howard Johnson chain. I can imagine a career where I publish numerous acclaimed cookbooks, work with Julia Child and am awarded the French Legion of Honor. In this endearing autobiography, Mr. Pepin proves that busting ass beats luck every time, and he does so with a winning attitude that is empowering and uplifting.

Another prominent name in the food world is that of Ruth Reichl. Possibly best known for her tenure at the helm of Gourmet Magazine before it folded, Ms. Reichl has completed at least three food memoirs: "Tender at the Bone", "Comfort Me with Apples", and "Garlic and Sapphires". Life stories in her hands become something less concrete, more fluid and malleable. In relaying tales of her culinary coming of age in the California heydays of the 1970's, breezily making her way from one lover's bed to the organic garden of another, then claiming the title of Restaurant Critic for the New York Times, she adopts a tone that is airy and distinctly rose-tinted. She is masterful with her prose (her Twitter followers will tell you that woman can work 140 characters like nobody's business!), all the while, subtly and ethereally entreating the reader to fawn over her experiences. To be sure, her life is rich with stories to be told. How else could she write THREE memoirs? But again, reading these books is a clear departure from my present world and a glimpse into a life I can only marvel at.

One unexpected surprise in the food memoir category is that of Sandra Lee, of Semi-Homemade fame. To be honest, I am not a fan of this woman's culinary career and propensity for fussying up the most mundane, which is schtick. But the story she tells in her hastily written (taking only six weeks!), "Made from Scratch" is eye-opening. Abandoned by her birth parents and left with only her younger sister and doting grandma, young Sandra Lee learns the lessons of frugality, turning 'nothing' into 'something', and that she can really only rely on herself. Through a series of peaks and valleys, we follow this incredibly ambitious woman, who will stop at nothing to achieve self-reliance and control over her own destiny. She makes and loses and makes millions of dollars along the way. She turns her hard-scrabble tale into something she can be proud of and I admire that determination and never-say-never attitude that serves her so well. I'm just not eating her food.

And now that I have returned from my semi-clandestine affair with Gabrielle Hamilton, with whom shall I take up next? It is only mid-June and the stack of books on my bedside table is only growing, almost touching the base of the lampshade. I am eager to take off for the Middle East as I make my way through Annia Ciezadlo's "Day of Honey: a Memoir of Food, Love & War". Documenting civilian life in wartime, as told through the language of food, “Honey” includes chapter titles like "Fear and Shopping", "Chicken Soup for the Iraqi Soul", and "The Flavor of Freedom".

Then I'll head for Upstate New York, to Hyde Park, the setting of Jonathan Dixon's book "Beaten, Seared & Sauced: On Becoming a Chef at the Culinary Institute of America". Enrolling at the venerable institution at the ripe old age of thirty-eight, he is the oldest in his class. I want to stand beside him as he learns to properly bone out a young hen, strain to keep up with classmates half his age, and navigate the rigors of a culinary education. I am sure his recipes will include equal parts hard work, humility, and a lot of burns and bruises.

I encourage you to support your local bookstore and pick up a few of these tasty tomes. And if my family comes calling, tell them to look for me between the pages…

Easy Classic Lunch

2011-06-13T19:51:00.000-05:00

I love picking up a rotisserie chicken for dinner. It is one of the easiest ways I know to get dinner on the table in a hurry. But, I am often left with enough meat on the bone to feel guilty about throwing it away. After roasting my own bird recently, I came up with the following:

Roasted Chicken with Melted Leeks in a Free-Form Puff-Pastry Tart
serves 4-6

Ingredients:
pulled meat from a roasted chicken (1 cup+)
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
4 leeks, white and light green parts only
2 lemons
1/2 cup mayonnaise
tarragon
1 sheet puff pastry (15" square, roughly)
1 egg, beaten with 1 tablespoon water

Directions:
1) Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.
2) Place chopped chicken in a large bowl.
3) Slice leeks in half length-wise and then into 1/4" slices. Wash in cool water until all dirt is removed. Drain and pat dry.
4) Heat 1 tablespoon butter and 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add leeks and saute until very tender. Let cool slightly and add to chopped chicken. Add 1/4 cup mayonnaise and the juice of one lemon. Add 1 tablespoon (or more, to taste) chopped tarragon. Stir to combine.
5) Lightly flour a flat surface and a rolling pin. Roll out the puff pastry and place on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Mound the chicken mixture in the middle of the puff pastry. Fold in all sides toward the middle, leaving a small hole in the middle, about 2" wide.

6) Bake for 30 minutes, until golden brown. Let rest five minutes before slicing. Serve with baby greens tossed with a light vinaigrette.

7) Make an aioli by combining the remaining 1/4 cup mayonnaise with the juice of the second lemon. Add more mayonnaise if you desire a thicker sauce. Serve this sauce along side the savory tart.

This is one of those entrees you can adapt a hundred way, by swapping out the herbs. You could do parsley and capers or cilantro and green onions. Adding sauteed fennel would be lovely too.
I used a purchased sheet of puff pastry which I keep on hand in the freezer. It is pretty indispensible and does not take up too much freezer space.

ENJOY!

Making the Most of Your CSA

2011-06-02T08:30:00.001-05:00

one week's haul: bok choy, fava beans, spring onions, radishes and strawberries

This week's story in Birmingham Weekly on CSAs (Community Supported Agriculture) touched on my (re)new(ed) love affair with farm-fresh produce. In the piece, I offer a brief explanation of this lovely source of fresh fruits and vegetables. For those of you who are local, I encourage you to pick up a copy; I've included a lovely fava bean recipe there. If you're not local, please email email me and I'll send you the direct link once it comes out on line.

Few too many of us have been lucky enough to have a small sunny spot where we could coax a plant or two. We wait until Good Friday to ease those seedlings into the ground, checking on their progress daily, whispering words of encouragement. But, as the season wears on, we might become a bit negligent in our watering, or scratch our heads at the flowers that fail to turn into fruit. But, should some of those plants produce, you can experience the sheer joy at sharing what 'you' created. You can bear witness to a child's joy in devouring something that came from a seed that he planted. Knowing where your food comes from can almost affect the taste as much as the soil, sun and water.

So when my fancy mail-order peppers wither without so much as a bud, I am that much more grateful for the CSA that provides us with a new harvest each week. We've met the farmers to whom we sent checks when the ground was still frozen. Back when visions of sweet butter lettuces and sun-warmed heirloom tomatoes only danced in our heads, we entered into a compact: making a down payment on their abilities to do what we cannot. Grow successfully.

Each Wednesday evening, I receive an email from one of our farmers, letting us know what we can expect in our waxed cardboard box the next day. I read the letter to my kids, and we imagine what we'll make. Mostly though, the kids just scheme about the cookies and macaroons they'll cadge at our pick-up point: Continental Bakery. And even though I usually know what we'll be receiving, it still feels like Christmas morning, opening that box and finding the treasures inside. The first time my seven-year-old son grabbed one of the sweet carrots from the bunch and started chomping (in lieu of that cookie!), I got a little teary-eyed. This is what moms like me dream about.

But the real beauty of this largesse is knowing that I don't have to do much of anything to make the stuff taste good. We rinse off the dirt -- proof, it seems, of it's origin -- and maybe saute in a little olive oil or blanch or grill or just eat raw. So far this spring, we've received the aforementioned fava beans, baby bok choy, spring onions, Easter Egg radishes, strawberries, kale, salad greens, kohlrabi, turnips and more. All of that since just mid-April!

Of course, you don't have to belong to a CSA to meet your farmer; I encourage you to get to any one of a number of local farmers markets. One of my goals this summer is to take my kids to the big farmers market on Finley Avenue, at 6:00 a.m. That is when the best stuff arrives and you can spy local chefs elbowing each other for choice selections -- or so I've heard.

Then again, we may just sleep in, and wait for our regular Thursday pick up. After all, we know the farmer.

______________________________________________________________________________

Recipe ideas: These are really more ideas than actual recipes. As I mentioned, you don't have to add much more than a little imagination to make these ingredients the star on your own dinner menu.

* Render a chopped slice or two of Benton's bacon. Remove bacon from pan and keep just one teaspoon of rendered fat. Add rough chopped slices of spring onions and toss to coat. Add halved bulbs of baby bok choy and saute until cooked but still a little firm. Add the cooked bacon and toss to combine. Add a tablespoon of toasted pine nuts if you have some handy. Enjoy with a nice grilled lamb chop.

I used pancetta in lieu of bacon in this version

* Preheat the grill. Toss halved radishes with a little salt, pepper, and olive oil. Grill until slightly charred on the outside but still a little firm. Do the same with some spring onions. Toss with some cooked Israeli couscous, olive oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Add grilled chicken breasts and serve over fresh salad greens.

a little fresh Belle Chevre goat cheese would be a lovely addition here

* Basically, I recommend grilling any vegetables you have on hand. I like the way the grill heat chars the edges, removes a little raw flavor, and starts to caramelize the natural sugars. Invest in a decent grill pan with holes large enough to not sweat your food but small enough to not lose anything through. (Does that make sense?) I have a round one, about 14" in diameter, with a handle and holes that are about 1/3" in size. Kind of like this one:

I am extremely lucky to have an extra freezer in my garage and I stock up on things when they are a good deal. Like lobster crab ravioli at Whole Foods Market. Spied at half-price one week, I bought several packages. These are so pretty; equally great in the winter with browned butter and fried sage leaves, here I tossed them with some shrimp I had on hand. Next, I grilled slices of zucchini and peppers.

To cook the corn (not from the CSA -- yet), I made a compound butter, smeared it on each cob, rolled them in foil and grilled until done.
This compound butter was made with one softened quarter, mashed together with a few minced garlic cloves, zest and juice from one lime, a little chile powder, and sea salt. I used 3/4 on the corn and the rest I tossed with the remaining ingredients before serving. Garnish with cilantro.

This post goes out to Puddin, who has admonished me of late, for not posting more. She reminds me that not everyone in the world is following me on Facebook. Thanks...

XOXO y'all.

Simple Syrups Make Summer Cocktails... Simple

2011-04-25T16:32:00.002-05:00

It all started last Friday, with a seemingly-harmless text to my friend, Suzette: "What are we doing for dinner tonight?"
She answered, "Your house?"

Why not?

After all, its one of the reasons we built this house. I love a last minute get-together. I knew I had some stuff in the fridge we could grill, she offered up Marina's salsa (see earlier post for this one!), and some other things she had on hand. She also invited our mutual friends, the Dixons, but I figured they had good stuff in their fridge too and we'd just wing it. Between the three of us, we would manage to feed our families and enjoy each other's company.

The only thing I knew for sure was what we'd be drinking: my new favorite summer drink -- Rosemary Lemon Sparkler.

This one is very easy. Start by making a simple syrup. To do so, combine one cup fresh-squeezed lemon juice and one cup sugar in a small heavy saucepan. Heat over medium-high heat and swirl to combine. Do not boil. You just want to melt the sugar into the lemon juice. Add two 6" stems of clean fresh rosemary. Remove pan from heat, cover and let steep for at least 30 minutes. Transfer to a glass jar once cooled (you may opt to remove the rosemary sprigs, or not -- whatever you prefer) and chill.

To make the drink, fill a tall glass with ice. Add 1 jigger of vodka or gin or tequila (optional, I suppose) and 1/2 - 1 jigger simple syrup. Fill with soda and stir. Garnish with a sprig of mint. Repeat as needed.

Once you get the hang of making simple syrups, you will want to try all sorts of combinations. Spying the season's first fresh rhubarb in the store the other day, I came up with one for that: heat 1.5 cups water and 1 cup sugar. Add a couple stalks of cleaned chopped rhubarb and let steep for at least 30 minutes. Pass the cooled liquid through a fine mesh sieve. Don't discard the solids; add them to a cup of Greek yogurt at breakfast and top with granola.

Other ones to try?

Basil and ginger

Lemongrass and Thai basil

Ginger, honey and blood orange juice

Lavender with a little rosewater

a few drops of orange flower water

pineapple and thyme

mint, jalapeno and lime juice...

Should you happen to have any leftover simple syrup, store in a tightly sealed container in the refrigerator for up to one week.

Sara Foster's Southern Kitchen: cookbook tips

2011-04-18T15:35:00.000-05:00

I received an advance copy of her new book, Sara Foster's Southern Kitchen. It is fantastic. Not that you'd really need to take my word for it; folks like John T. Edge, Kim Sunee, Ina Garten, and Julia Reed have already given her high praise.

The first piece of advice I'll give you about this book is to buy it. In fact, buy several copies because you will not want to loan your copy to a soul. The second piece of advice is to go ahead and lose that dust jacket. This is not a cookbook that will ever gather dust in your kitchen. But, if it does, shame on you. As an ardent and firm believer in using the best of what is available seasonally, there is not a time of year this book will be back on the shelf. From Kate's Sweet Potato Refrigerator Rolls to Pea and Bacon Pirlou to Grilled Peach Salad with Shaved Country Ham and Summer Herbs, Southern Kitchen is filled with those timeless recipes we grew up with (or just tell people we did.)

Her recipe for Brown Bag Chicken is to die for. My kids could not believe I put a whole chicken IN a paper bag IN the oven AND cooked it! And then we ate it! It was moist and succulent. The leftover meat was so flavorful and made a great addition to a lunchtime salad the next day.

Brown Bag Chicken

From Sara Foster's Southern Kitchen: Soulful, Traditional, Seasonal

Ingredients:

one 3- to 3 1/2-pound chicken

sea salt and freshly ground pepper

1 onion, cut in half

4 sprigs, fresh rosemary

1 tablespoon hot Hungarian paprika

Directions:

1) Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.

2) Rinse the chicken, pat dry, and remove any excess fat. Sprinkle generously with salt and pepper to taste inside and out. Place the onion and rosemary inside the cavity and rub the outside of the chicken with the paprika.

3) Lay a standard-size brown paper grocery bag on its side and place the chicken inside, tying the top of the bag with kitchen string. Place the bagged chicken on a rimmed baking sheet in the lower third of the oven, so you have plenty of room at the top.

4) Cook for 1 1/2 hours, remove the chicken from the oven and carefully open the bag to release the steam. Check for doneness by inserting an internal thermometer in the thickest part of the though; it should read about 165 degrees F and the juices should run clear when the thigh is pierced with the tip of a small knife.

5) Let rest for about ten minutes before carving. Slice the breasts and cut the wings, legs and thighs into pieces. Serve warm.

Been Gone too Long

2011-04-06T15:19:00.000-05:00

I have been gone from the Kitchen for way too long!
So, what has been going on since we last spoke? Well, I have been a busy, busy girl...

I've planted tomatoes -- even though I was supposed to wait until Good Friday; I've shot two short cooking videos for submission for a possible web-based cooking program; I've made several great meals, some good ones, and maybe even a couple that were only passable. I've written more for Birmingham Weekly as well as Village Living. Jack has started spring soccer and Amanda is playing lacrosse for the first time. My tenure as a Mountain Brook Chamber Board member has begun and that is quite exciting too. It is a busy and charming spring so far.

Probably the biggest thing I've done recently is fly to Durham to meet with cookbook author and Foster's Market proprietor, Sara Foster. I confess to suffering from a little "paralysis by analysis" when it comes to writing about this subject. This is the real reason for my absence here. I am completely blown away by Sara and all that she has accomplished. Coupled with the fact that she is so seemingly-aloof and nonplussed, I was almost confounded with how to begin writing about her. For two days, I observed Sara operate in her two Markets, check in on the non-profit SEEDS operation where she is a board member, and visit several local epicurean hotspots in Durham. I simply did not want to disappoint so I had trouble just getting started.

My intent in this visit to North Carolina was to write about Sara and her upcoming visit to Birmingham to promote her fourth cookbook, Sara Foster's Southern Kitchen: Soulful, Traditional, Seasonal. I knew I probably had enough from the press kit that accompanied the advance copy of her book but, I also knew this was an opportunity that would not come along often. In my bones, I felt a wellspring of stories and adventures that would flow from this experience. I had to pursue it. So, with the blessing of her PR firm and good friend Chadwick Boyd at Lovely & Delicious, I was off to the Research Triangle to meet Ms. Foster.

I was not disappointed -- well maybe just a bit -- but only with myself. I had done scads to research on the subject, read her past three cookbooks, talked to people who know her, cooked from the new book. But still, I had no idea what to expect. We managed to spend the majority of the first day together. I could tell that she might have one of those personalities that needs a break from activity every once in a while, so I made several concerted efforts to give her space, while still getting what I would need to write. We ate, we talked, we drove around and met friends and acquaintances. And by the end of the day, I felt defeated. I still felt I had not made a connection with her. Had I been too pushy? Had I not been professional enough? Would I be able to encapsulate all that I was thinking and feeling into a true representation of her?

But, as we parted ways that first afternoon, she casually mentioned, "I had a great time today." And my spirits soared. And then I think I kind of started to get her. Sara does indeed have a dry wit and a quiet voice. If you don't lean in close, you might miss the joke. She does not feel the need to talk to be heard; rather she is seemingly content to observe, soak it all in, and then produce excellence, without seeking accolades.

And so when I arrived on day two, at her Chapel Hill location, she gave me a hug. And I finally exhaled. I knew I was up to the task. Not only that, I knew I could nail it. So we talked some more and reviewed the prior day's notes and I filled in some gray areas. I told her I'd gone to one of the places she'd recommended for dinner. She wanted to know what I ate and how everything was.

Before I knew it, it was time to say goodbye. She offered up some cookies for the road and a sample of the pickled watermelon rinds her kitchen manager had made. And I was happy.

The article for Birmingham Weekly is written, scheduled to appear in next Thursday's issue, coinciding with her arrival in the Magic City. And I still have loads left to say. I will write a piece on Sara Foster that will be worthy of a national publication; I have a few in mind that I think it will be perfect for.

In the mean time, I'm sorry I have been gone so long. But please come back and see me here. Besides, I haven't even gotten to tell about all the great recipes in Sara Foster's Southern Kitchen, so stay tuned!

Spoon Fed: An Interview with Kim Severson

2011-03-09T18:14:00.000-06:00

(This blog post dovetails with my Birmingham Weekly article, scheduled to appear 3/10/11. They are two different approaches to the same interview and I'd love for you to read them both! Please send me a note, telling me what you think: Christiana.Roussel@gmail.com). XOXO, cdr)

I first met Kim Severson at January’s FoodBlogSouth event in Woodlawn. She was the keynote speaker and a big draw. As a food editor at the venerable New York Times, and a published memoirist, the participants looked to her example, as a goal to shoot for.

While most in the room had read her book Spoon Fed: How Eight Cooks Saved My Life, some had not. Her humor and dry wit completely charmed the crowd. She held the microphone like a seasoned comic and took questions from the audience in a relaxed manner. She could have sat stock still on a stool and read missives from the book but, that’s not who she is.

At the event, she mentioned (more than once) that the paperback version of her book would be released March 1st. It was a softball hit and I grabbed it. After pitching the idea to my editor at the Birmingham Weekly, and seeing that Kim would be back in town to promote the book, I called her publisher for an interview.

I’d done enough research to know she and her family had recently relocated to Atlanta when she assumed the job of Bureau Chief for the New York Times. It would be very easy to do a phone interview with her but what I really wanted was…lunch. Atlanta is just a quick two hour drive from here. Having grown up there, I’ve made the trip dozens of times. I’ve even discovered that if I hit the road just after dropping off morning carpool, I can be there by lunchtime.

But this is a published author and frickin’ NEW YORK TIMES writer – would she deign to dine with little ole me? All I could do was ask. So I did. And what do you know? She said yes.

Kim lives in Decatur, just outside of Atlanta, so she suggested a local restaurant, Leon's Full Service. Frankly she could have suggested Cracker Barrel in Villa Rica and I would have gone. The food was the background.

I was also sure that she would select some place that would eliminate any ‘food sad’ moments. At the FoodBlogSouth event, she shared this phrase of hers. It’s reserved for those times when you eat just to get full, when your hunger is satisfied but your soul is not. Like when you’re walking city blocks with a group of friends and no one can agree on a restaurant. You grab a slice of pizza from the guy on the corner, only to discover that just in the next block was a culinary tour de force. And you missed it. That’s ‘food sad.’

At Leon’s, we made our introductions and settled into a corner booth. I really admire Ms. Severson and truly like her work so I was eager to impress or at least not look the fool. I brought along a tape recorder and asked if she minded if I used it. (Note to self: listening to myself on tape, interviewing someone is positively PAINFUL. How many times can I say “Yeah, yeah, yeah!” And “Oh, uh huh, I KNOW!” Seriously, I sound like such a complete tool. Luckily I was blissfully unaware of this inner-dolt at lunch.)

I pressed ‘record’ and we began the meal with Bacon in a Glass. What’s not to love about that? Strips of Benton's bacon served crisp, with a small ramekin of homemade honey-peanut-butter for dipping. We both admitted there was genius here on a plate. Kim quickly staged a little food vignette, snapped a photo with her iPhone and deftly tweeted it to her followers. She graciously added my er, Twitter handle, to the post and I felt a little faint. Maybe it was the bacon. Allan Benton’s meat products have that effect on me.

Next up were the cornmeal-crusted calamari with barbecue sauce and pickled red onions. The tang of the chilled homemade sauce was lovely against the hot crunch of the squid rings. We had ordered a true hodge-podge of dishes so it was a surprise to see what would come next.

Having read her book and preparing for the interview, I knew a lot about her. In between my queries, Kim asked me what I thought of the FoodBlogSouth event and how I ended up in Birmingham. We talked local restaurants and I recommended a few she should try when she comes back for her appearance at Little Professor in Homewood on March 14th.

Two more dishes arrived: a pig smörgås with Benton’s country ham, melted Gruyere grand cru, cherry jam, pineapple on toast; and poutine. I speak ham-n-cheese but I was clueless about the second dish. Kim described how poutine is classically made, pretty much just like what my New Food Lover’s Companion describes: “The ultimate in French-Canadian junk food, a mélange of warm french fries, topped with fresh cheese curds, then smothered with gravy.” At Leon’s Full Service, the poutine-of-the-day was topped with foie gras gravy. She said that real Quebecois have serious opinions as to the qualities that make a great poutine; it is something more than mere cheese-fries.

It was at this point that we gave ourselves over to the power of meat and cheese. And my tape recording slips into gravy slurps and lots of “Mmm! Oh, here, you have to try a bit of this!” Again, painful for me to listen to on my little earphones.

The salads arrived but Kim did not slow to photograph the poutine or tweet about our salads. I happen to follow her on Twitter and asked her about how social media fits in with the journalist’s ethos. She admitted that while there is the “pressure today to hyper-experience things” by documenting each bite and nuance, sometimes you just want to “share it without reporting it” and sites like Twitter let you do just that. She added that blogs and the like have led to a “democratization of food writing.” There will always be the industry leaders who elevate the form and serve as “the tent poles but, a kind of free-form bazaar” exists as well. There seems to be room for a myriad of takes on the subject of food.

We refilled our own tea glasses from pitchers at the table and sat back to think about whether or not there was room for dessert. At this point, we’d been talking for more than an hour. And she’s been talking about Spoon Fed for more than a year, since the hardcover version came out. She strikes me as the kind of person who has a genuine sense of curiousity about the world around her. That must ignite the journalist in her, always looking for the next great thing to write about. So it struck me, and I asked her quite frankly if she wasn’t a tiny bit tired of talking about the memoir, getting the same-old-same-old questions from people like me.

She admitted that sometimes, the promotional part of putting out a book is agonizing. But, as fellow author and Southern chef Virginia Willis recently told her, “You know Kim, you OWE it to this book to sell it. You owe it to the editors and publishers and everyone else who worked to get it done.” And she’s right. Because there are eight great stories in here; and one is bound to speak to you.

We did indeed have room for dessert: the cookie/candybar of the day which was a firm piece of shortbread, covered in a hazelnut-ganache, chilled and sliced into finger-length pieces. It was the perfect little ending to a great lunch. I hadn’t spilled any food on myself or my guest and I had yet to hear myself on tape. All was right with the world for a short time.

I looked at my watch and realized that if I left soon, I could be back in time to pick up afternoon carpool in Birmingham. This is a great life.

Friday, February 18, 2011

2011-02-18T19:33:00.000-06:00

This is what Friday night looks like at my house: a big, hot, tasty mess.

Let me explain.

After a week of everyone being pulled in a dozen different directions, we look forward to an evening where we can share a meal, watch a movie, and be a family. Its what we crave.

Tonight's "creation" was kind of off-the-cuff. My friend Kathy had emailed me first thing this morning, asking for ideas on a family pizza-making-night. My first thought was fresh dough from Whole Foods. Of course I could make my own but why bother when it is so readily available and reliably delicious?

I'd had in mind grilling whole butterflied chickens, in honor of the fact that they were on sale today, also at Whole Foods. I picked up a couple, along with cucumbers, Roma tomatoes, oregano and basil. I was following a Bobby Flay recipe that my friend, Kelly, had told me was foolproof. I love foolproof!

I turned on the grill, preheated the oven and added the pizza stone to get hot. I butterflied the chickens and followed Bobby's lead. While the chickens cooked, I tossed the dough. So fresh, it had a great amount of highly-desired air bubbles which make for an airy crust. I'd thought about building a salad on top of the crust -- as my friend Allie recommended. But those air bubbles conspired to give me another idea!

The crust puffed up so high, giving it a giant air pocket in the center. Once it was browned, I took it from the oven and let it rest, as the cooked chickens were doing. I made the dressing and assembled the remaining ingredients: feta, tzatsiki, grilled tomatoes and lemons. The entire surface of my kitchen island was being utilized; all I could think about was how much I WISHED I had someone else to come in and clean up after me. A girl can dream!

Here's how things came together:

puffy pizza crust

Slice it open with an "X" and add layers of yum.

two whole roasted butterflied chickens

roasted Roma tomatoes and lemons

pulled chicken meat

fresh greens and roasted tomatoes

everything layered: cucumbers, tzatsiki, more chicken and dressing

all closed back up - ready to serve!

Of course, now that I'm looking at the pictures, I realized I forgot the freshly shredded basil leaves and the Kalamata olives. Oh well, we've got leftovers! What a lovely happy mess of a dinner. Happy weekend y'all.

p.s. now that I think about it, wouldn't these be fun to make as individual-sized portions? Each dinner guest could tear open their open happy mess of a Greek-filled pizza. Hmm, sounds like another dinner party is in the works!

(Want more details on this recipe? Please send me an email at Christiana.Roussel@gmail.com and I'll try to help.)

New Year's Resolution -- for Valentine's Day

2011-02-14T15:50:00.000-06:00

I made a New Year's Resolution this year that I would have more dinner parties in 2011.

I finally have what I call "my big girl house" with my "big girl kitchen". I'd recently located all those wedding presents of china, crystal, and silver and had them in one place. There was just no excuse for not doing this kind of thing more often.

I decided on a theme -- Valentine's Day -- and picked a date I hoped would work for everyone. Narrowing down the list proved to be one of the more formidable tasks associated with this event. I wanted everyone but I only had room for ten at the dining room table which really frustrated me. I winnowed the list to five couples and emailed them all save-the-date notes. We picked Friday the 11th and kept our fingers crossed that bad weather, babysitter-shortages, and sick children all stayed away. The week before the event, I delivered hand-written invitations. I wanted my guests to know this would be special.

I decided on a menu that I could prep and prepare in advance, something festive, affordable yet still elegant. Surprisingly, beef tenderloin fit the bill perfectly. A nice cut of beef might cost a little more but, combined with a salad, vegetable and starch, it goes a long way. Here is a picture of the menu:

I started setting the table on Monday, making sure I had clean, ironed napkins for all and a decent tablecloth. It was then that I realized that I didn't have ten at the table but TWELVE! I had forgotten to count Ranson and myself. Oh well, we could pull in extra chairs from the kitchen and all get cozy. By the end of the night, we were guaranteed to all know one another a little better. Here's a photo of the table:

I scattered little candy hearts all over for decoration and added place cards so we could mix up the conversation. I'd invited a variety of friends, some of whom did not already know one another, and I was looking to make some "love connections", friend-wise and business-wise.

On Thursday, I bought and trussed the two tenderloins. Do you know how to truss -- or tie up -- a tenderloin? I should shoot a video of that because its a very useful skill. I actually learned how to do it from watching chef Bobby Flay on television. He had a show on Lifetime Television BEFORE The Food Network even debuted and I used to record it while I was at work (LIKE ON THE VCR!) I played back that tape over and over again until I could finally do it myself. Why do people truss a piece of meat? So that it stays uniform in size and therefore, cooks evenly. And it just looks pretty.

Friday morning, I made the cheese grits and the appetizers. My sweet husband requested bacon-wrapped, smoked-almond-stuffed dates so I obliged. They are easy to put together and there is never one left after a party. Amanda asked for Hot Bacon Swiss Dip and even though she would not be at the party, I made it, putting some aside just for her.

I roasted the peppers for the salad on Friday morning too. This is a dish I used to make all the time and somehow it had just slipped out of the rotation. Once I put the ingredients together again, I remembered how much I loved it. That recipe is below.

By the time the kids came home from school, the house was clean, the table was set, the food was either cooked or ready to cook and I could focus on them. All that was really left to do was arrange the flowers. Amanda wanted each lady to have a bloom at her place setting so she was in charge of that. Ranson set up the bar when he got home -- making sure he had plenty of ice, sliced lemons & limes, soda and tonic. Growing up in New Orleans, that boy knows a thing or two about how to set up a proper party bar!

Time to light some candles. Now its a well-known fact that EVERYONE looks better in candlelight. I had placed them everywhere so guests would feel comfortable sitting in any room they wanted, even if we chose to never leave the kitchen.

Jack and Amanda were fed, bathed, and properly ensconced in our bed watching a movie when the first guests arrived at 7:00 pm.

I think the evening was a success: no fights broke out, no one cried (well, tears of laughter) and no one got food poisoning. In all honesty, we really had a great time. I had planned well enough that I was able to relax with my friends. Everyone laughed A LOT and I didn't burn the tenderloin. We even had enough for leftovers!

Coffee-Crusted Beef Tenderloin, McEwen Cheese Grits, Haricots Vert

So, the first dinner party of the year is under our belts. Hmm, when do you think we should do the next one?

Roasted Peppers

Ingredients:
1 large (or 2 small) red bell pepper
1 large (or 2 small) yellow bell pepper
½ cup olive oil
¼ cup balsamic vinegar
1/4 cup chopped fresh basil
2 tablespoons lemon juice
3 cloves garlic, minced
salt and pepper, to taste

Directions:
1) Cut peppers in half lengthwise and seed. Place cut side down on a foil lined baking sheet. Place under a broiler and cook until the skins have blackened. Remove from oven and place peppers in a paper bag. Seal and let stand for 10 minutes.
2) Remove the peppers from the bag and slide their skins off. Slice each pepper into strips. Set aside.
3) Mix all remaining ingredients in a medium bowl. Add the roasted peppers and toss to coat. Cover and refrigerate until needed.

Notes:
* Toast French bread slices and spread with Boursin cheese. Top each slice with a bit of the roasted peppers for a great appetizer.
* Add a few peppers and a few tablespoons of the marinade to some butter lettuces for a quick and elegant starter salad.

Salt: A love story...

2011-02-10T16:32:00.001-06:00

Here is the link to the Salt: A Love Story that appeared in today's issue of Birmingham Weekly:

http://www.bhamweekly.com/birmingham/article-2135-salt-a-lovestory.html

I swear the seed for this story came about years ago. At the time, I was starting my tenure as the Marketing Team Leader for our Mountain Brook Whole Foods Market -- a position I have since abdicated. (LBB is SO much better at it than I am.)
Back then, I sat down with Birmingham Weekly's Lynn Leishman as she proposed a joint venture with WFM, tentatively titled Local Dish. In this monthly series, local chefs would form a panel to discuss a specific ingredient. While they talked and answered questions, guests would sample menu items that featured that particular ingredient. Guests would donate a nominal fee to a local charity in exchange for drinks and a nosh. The ingredient for the night could be anything -- potatoes, honey, arugula, artisnal chocolates, salt. This last one really stuck with me and I began to look for unique salts everywhere I went.

The Local Dish series was a big hit at the Mountain Brook Whole Foods Market but it was a huge monthly undertaking that required a lot of hands on deck. While it is currently on hiatus, you just never know. It could come back again one day. I hope salt will be one of the topics that gets tackled!

XOXO y'all,
Christiana

Slow Cooker Pork Sate

2011-02-08T10:00:00.003-06:00

Slow cookers (aka Crock Pots) can be tricky little buggers. Its a leap of faith to pile in all your ingredients, turn the machine on and walk away. I am always afraid the thing will start a house fire while I am not there. Another chance you take is having truly flavorless, soft, mushy, gray meat. And sad disappointed faces around your dinner table. Then again, just to have dinner ready when I get back from work is a risk I am willing to take.

So I go back to the slow cooker, thinking this will be the time I do it right.

All the recipes I consult insist that one must start with a large, piece of meat, richly marbled with fat. A big chuck roast or pork shoulder are ideal cuts. It is true that these meats get very tender with a long slow braise. It also helps to sear the meat before adding it to the pot, a step that adds good flavor.

The elements of weather, time and the right ingredients conspired recently to create Slow Cooker Pork Sate. A cold gray January day, packed with appointments and practices got me thinking about what I could have ready for dinner that night. Wonder of wonders? It actually worked! Herewith, the recipe.

Slow Cooker Pork Sate
serves 6 - 8

Ingredients:
1 4-5 pound boneless pork shoulder
2-3 tablespoons Sate seasoning (from Penzey's Spices)

1 large yellow onion, sliced

Directions:

1) Rinse the pork shoulder and pat completely dry. Place the meat on a clean work surface and rub all over with Sate seasoning, making sure to coat the entire surface. Let pork rest at room temperature for at least 20 minutes.

2) Scatter onion slices on the bottom of the slow cooker bowl.

3) Heat a large cast iron skillet on medium high heat. If your skillet is well seasoned, you will not need any oil in the pan. If you are using a non-seasoned skillet (bless your heart!) or a traditional skillet, add a tablespoon of olive oil before proceeding.

4) Sear the pork on all sides, at least 2-3 minutes per side. Add the pork butt to your slow cooker, fatty side up.

Cover and cook on low heat for 6-7 hours, until meat can be shredded with two forks.

Serve shredded pork over freshly steamed rice and drizzle with peanut sauce (recipe follows). Garnish with chopped cilantro.

Peanut sauce

Whisk together the following ingredients:

3/4 cup creamy peanut butter

1 cup hot chicken broth

the zest from one lime

1/4 cup fresh lime juice

1 tablespoon dark brown sugar

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger

crushed red pepper (or Sriracha sauce) to taste

Refrigerate any remaining sauce which will keep for about a week.

Eating New York - part two

2011-02-06T14:44:00.081-06:00

Friday arrived and I was ready to go! I had planned my day in New York by neighborhoods and cross streets, ready to do it all.

Not wanting to look like a tourist, I wrote out addresses and travel info on individual post-it notes that I could slide out of my purse and keep hidden in the palm of my hand. I never want to be one of those folks you see on a street corner with a quizzical look and a full-sized map unfolded. I never want to be someone's "mark."

Only two things were fixed on Friday's schedule: a visit to The Meadow in the West Village and lunch with Mom at The Modern, just south of Central Park. These would be my highlights, all the rest just lagniappe!

Mark Bitterman's shop, The Meadow, is an off-shoot of the original store in Portland, Oregon. I'd heard an interview with him on The Splendid Table a while back and was fascinated by his love for salt. Not only does he have two retail outlets devoted to the subject, but he has written the definitive treatise on the matter in his book Salted: A Manifesto on the World's Most Essential Mineral, with Recipes. Seriously, I have been dying to visit his store but had to wait until 11:00 a.m. for it to open.

By now the snow had stopped and the sun was threatening to peek through the clouds. With impervious rain boots, I could meander the streets of the West Village without fearing for my footwear. Slushy corners and knee-high snowdrifts be damned! I ran into these two little friends who must have felt the same way.

Pride be damned and not caring if I looked too eager, I was there when Mark unlocked and opened the door. Literally. Because I took the handle on the outside of the door as a MENSA test and kept tugging and pulling. He politely came over and opened the door IN to the store. I always did make quite a first impression.

Nevertheless, we spent about an hour talking salt and tasting several of the 100+ varieties that lined his shop's shelves. The space was narrow but thoughtfully stocked also with artisnal chocolates. I purchased a tobacco-laced dark chocolate bar and a matcha-tea infused white chocolate bar. I'll be writing a full-length piece on salt in an upcoming issue of Birmingham Weekly -- STAY TUNED!

After leaving The Meadow, I checked my palm to confirm the address and headed back down Hudson Street to Jacques Torres' Chocolate Emporium (http://www.mrchocolate.com/). Located on a corner, the entire store is enclosed in glass. No part of the operation seems obscured. Women in gloves and paper hats were frantically putting together Valentine's boxes, loaded with the kind of premium confections real chocoholics dream about. I came in from the cold January street to warm myself with that heavenly scent. A barista was busy concocting drinks on one side of the store as other workers gingerly refilled cases with chocolate confections. Truth be told, it was all too much! I frankly could not make a decision. I would have to get something to eat immediately, something to take to friends and family, and something to squirrel away for later. A quick look at my watch helped me get out the door. That was close!

I made my way over to Sixth Avenue for a pop into C.O. Bigelow and Citarella. The former is one of the oldest apothecaries in the country and now offers all types of lotions, potions, and creams to ameliorate any skin condition imaginable. My husband hates going into places like this with me because I simply have to touch and smell EVERYTHING. Really, everything. I want to feel the bristles on the natural-boar hairbrushes; I want to know what rose-petal-baby's-breath-hyacinth-yuzu-Mongolian-rainwater smells like; I want to test the latest shade of indigo-vermilion eye shadow on my wrist. And then I'm done. So, stores like this are best experienced solo.

sea urchins

razor clams

oysters

Citarella is an old-school boutique-style corner grocery store. Its the kind of place where regular shoppers are shown the best cuts of meat and the delivery boys know who tips the best. For me, I needed water and a piece of fruit to sustain myself. And I'm obsessed with all kinds of food purveyors. The seafood department was the most amazing use of square footage I could imagine: sea urchins, a dozen different types of oysters, razor clams. So cool!

Not much time left for dilly-dallying, I walked a few more blocks, searching my pocket for the next round of post-it notes I'd need to get to the Modern. I found the address and hailed a cab. It felt good to sit back and people watch as I was relocated to Midtown.

The Modern is a Danny Meyer restaurant, located just a block or so down from The Museum of Modern Art. Danny Meyer is to restaurants what Walt Disney is to theme parks: excellence at every turn. No detail is overlooked or deemed too small to matter. From his Shake Shack to Union Square Cafe to Gramercy Tavern, Danny Meyer's name is synonymous with hospitality and quality. In his book, Setting the Table, he goes into depth about what makes a great restaurant. One tip? Its about so much more than the food. Whether you are a big-spending regular or out-of-town rube, you are a guest at his restaurants and you will never feel anything less than the center of attention.

Of course, the food at The Modern is exceptional. My mom had gotten us a reservation but I was the first to arrive. Seated at a two-top in the bar area, I felt myself relax, able to soak in the ambiance. I ordered a tea -- UNsweet, which made my waiter smile (No, I'm not from around here...) -- and settled in with the menu.

Divided into three sections, various dishes are offered by size. The menu notes: "We welcome you to construct your meal any way you'd like according to your appetite -- from one plate to a multi-course tasting. Dishes on pages one and two are served in appetizer size; those on page three are half-entree portion."

There were so many things to choose from, how could I ever decide? The Hamachi Tartare? The Braised Tripe? The Slow Poached Farm Egg in a Jar? The Colorado Lamb Saddle?

By now you are realizing this is not a menu for the faint of heart OR stomach. One must be prepared to take certain leaps of faith or risks. Heaven knows you want to eat well but there is a certain fear in ordering... wrong. After all, who knows when we'll get back here?!

After much hemming and hawing, Mom and I finally decided: she'd start with the Artichoke Soup with pearl barley, toasted almond and ricotta salata and I'd begin with the Alsatian Country Soup with Benton ham and rock shrimp. Those of y'all familiar with the South AND my love of bacon will recognize the name of the ham purveyor in that Alsatian soup. Allan Benton of Benton's Hams makes some of the finest pork products I have ever tasted in my life. His bacon and prosciutto are second to none and are available through mail order. If you are ever looking to win the heart and mind of someone dear, send them some Benton's bacon. They will be yours.

The soups arrived in piping hot Staub metal pots which kept the broth at just the right temperature. This was a common restaurant trick I could try at home for my next fete. By heating the vessel, I could ensure that my soup is consumed just as I served it.

Artichoke Soup

Alsatian Country Soup

Next up were the entrees. I ordered the Crispy Atlantic Cod with celeriac-Granny Smith apple salad, sauce gribiche and American caviar. One look at the menu and I knew what my mom would order. She is a sucker for roasted beets. Her selection? Grilled Diver Scallops with roasted beets, Swiss chard and hazelnuts. The presentations were so lovely!

Crispy Atlantic Cod

Grilled Diver Scallops

No room left for dessert, we were completely satisfied and ready to shop til we dropped. We collected our coats (and hats and scarves and gloves and...) braced ourselves for the cold afternoon, just outside.

And besides, there would be more of New York to eat, later...

Domino Brownies

2011-02-03T14:25:00.000-06:00

Working from home can be both a blessing and a curse. There are always a million ways one can get distracted: facebook, laundry, reorganizing drawers, facebook, shopping online, not paying bills, rolling around on the floor with the dogs, more facebook... You get the idea. One thing I seldom allow myself to do though is turn on the TV. I'm not sure why. I mean, I am not above watching the occasional Kardashian train wreck or Cash Cab marathon. But it just seems too easy to get sucked in.

But, so it was that I found myself tuning into the Food Network last week, watching something else I could not make myself turn off: Paula Deen. That woman blows my mind. People give her a hard time, saying none of her dishes can be made without first starting with a stick of butter. Others look down their noses at her and call her food 'pedestrian' or 'low-brow'.

I don't know. I've made a few of her things and think they taste pretty damn good. Of course, I can't afford to eat that way all the time; none of my clothes would still fit. But, I think there is a time and place for her brand of comfort food. We make her version of Monkey Bread, one she calls Gorilla Bread, every year at Christmas. In that recipe, she wraps biscuit dough around cinnamon sugar-laced cream cheese and piles them in a Bundt pan. Good heavens, they are delicious!

The dessert she was making last week was another twist on a classic, kicked up with some cream cheese. In her Volcano cake, she uses a German chocolate cake mix as her base. After folding in some crushed candy pieces, she spoons sugar-sweetened cream cheese dollops into the batter that are intended to sink to the bottom and get all oozey. I liked her premise but wanted to tweak things a bit. For one thing, I am not a fan of German Chocolate anything.

However, we love the Ghiradelli Triple-Chocolate Brownie mix in our house. Loaded with chocolate chunks and impossibly easy, its almost hard to improve on this old standby. But, like always, Paula had me at "cream cheese". It was worth a try.

I mixed up the batter according to the package directions and poured it into a prepared 9x13 glass baking dish. Next, I combined one 8-ounce package of softened cream cheese with a couple tablespoons of softened butter and a cup of powdered sugar. I placed large dollops of the cream cheese mixture over the batter.

At this point, the pan looked like a domino tile, in reverse. I baked it for about 40 minutes at 325*, until an inserted toothpick came out clean. While the brownies cooled, I made up a glaze similar to Paula's.

I poured it over the brownies and used the back of a spoon to spread it around, going all the way to the edges. I let the pan rest while the brownies finished setting.

My only word of caution with this recipe is that the brownies are just plain messy to try and plate. You can cut it into slices but these are difficult to get out of the pan in neat and tidy squares. But that doesn't really bother me. I'd rather eat well and clean up later. Sounds like a good way to procrastinate a few more minutes...

Domino Brownies
8 to 10 servings

Ingredients:
Cream cheese mixture:
1 8-ounce package cream cheese, softened
4 tablespoons butter, softened
1 cup powdered sugar

Brownies:
1 package Ghiradelli triple chocolate brownie mix

Glaze:
4 tablespoons butter
4 tablespoons cocoa powder
1/4 cup milk
1 cup powdered sugar

Directions:
1) For the cream mixture: Beat ingredients together with an electric mixer. Set aside until ready to use.
2) Cake: Preheat oven to 325º F. Grease a 9x13 glass baking dish.
3) Prepare the brownie mix according to the package directions. Pour into the prepared baking dish. Evenly space dollops of cream cheese mixture on top of the cake. Bake for about 40 minutes, or until an inserted toothpick comes out clean.
4) For the glaze: In a small saucepan, melt butter over medium-low heat. Whisk in cocoa powder and add milk until you get a thin consistency. Remove from heat and whisk in powdered sugar. Pour over brownies and spread using the back of a large spoon.
5) Let brownies rest at least 15 minutes before slicing.

Eating New York - part one

2011-01-30T06:52:00.042-06:00

I am in New York this weekend to celebrate my dad's birthday. The Millrose Games are at Madison Square Garden and he has always wanted to go. As my brother and sister and their families live within driving distance, it was up to my offshoot of the family to fly in. Sadly, a school event prevented one of the kids from being able to miss school so my husband took one for the team and stayed home with both of them.

Knowing I would be in New York essentially by myself -- except for a few family commitments -- was both thrilling and overwhelming. There was simply too much I wanted to do in just three short days.

So, I plotted. And I planned. And I put away some cash. And I researched some more. And then I attended the FoodBlogSouth event last weekend and met New York Times writer, Kim Severson. While signing my copy of her book Spoon Fed, I picked her brain about restaurants, specifically noteworthy ones in Midtown and lower. One she recommended was ESCA, near my hotel, so I booked it for Thursday night; mom and dad and I could dine together, just the three of us, something we had not been able to do for a long time. I was very excited.

But, then the 89th blizzard of 2011 hit and hindered their flight plans. Seemed if I wanted to go ESCA, I'd have to go it alone.

As I've mentioned before, I truly do rate a 50/50 introvert/extrovert scale on the Meyers-Briggs test. I never ever mind being alone. Alone, never Lonely. I just don't want to be by myself for forever.

So I kept the reservation, amending it to a "party of one" and headed over to 43rd street. Passing through the Theater District, I took note of the time: show time, and the whole scene was electric. Very good energy everywhere, in spite of there being waist-high piles of snow at every turn.

I arrived at ESCA, expecting to be inserted somewhere at the bar, with a makeshift placemat and sharp after-work elbows in my side. Surprisingly, I was led to a two-top, in the wine cellar room, without any awkward waiting. It was then that I knew I had not made a mistake in keeping my reservation.

ESCA, which means bait in Italian, is notable for their focus on fish, specifically, raw fish or "crudo". The crudo choices, the Italian version of sashimi, filled one whole page of the menu. The next page listed more traditional Italian starters. Primi options, mostly pasta, came next, followed by the Secondi, or main entrees. I ordered an Italian beer and nestled into the banquette with my menu.

The waiter brought out a small bruschetta with a white bean and fish topping that whetted my appetite perfectly. I selected a crudo plate, a salad and a pasta dish. Now came the hard part: waiting for the food to arrive, alone.

Dining alone must be a type of art. You must appear self-confident and nonplussed, aloof but not disinterested, satisfied in the solitude. I tried not to eavesdrop on my neighbors or stare at the other diners, mentally working out their relationships and backstories. I did not want to tune out the din in favor of a glowing smartphone screen, nor did I want to pull out a magazine or novel that would take up precious tabletop real estate. But in a world where we have trained ourselves to be multitaskers of the highest order, this was hard.

Fortunately, my crudo arrived before I had time to over think the situation. Three gorgeous slices of raw orata dotted the plate. Like yellow fin tuna, they were opaque in color and firm. Drizzled with Meyer-lemon infused olive oil and finished with fresh salt and pepper, they were perfection on a plate. I took a moment to absorb everything and fix a memory in my head. I recalled what it had taken to get to this moment and wished my husband were here to share the experience. And then I attacked the fish and every pore in my tongue soaked up the zing and pop that citrus and ocean created together.

Next came a very simple yet satisfying salad of arugula, shaved fennel, and blood orange slices. There was immense flavor and layers of texture in each bite. Seasonal and appropriate and so good. And something that would be so simple to recreate at home, I noted, literally.

Arugula, shaved fennel and blood orange salad at ESCA

My main course arrived -- spicy octopus and bucatini pasta -- just as new diners were seated at the next table. These guys were hungry and made eyes at my plate. They inquired, so I told them where to find this selection on the menu and they quickly ordered their own. I love bucatini but no one else is my house does. Long hollow spaghetti-like tubes are the perfect pasta for a sauce like this one. Yes, I slurped up every last piece.

By now the fatigue of travel had set in and I signaled for the check. It arrived, along with a little plate of four classic Italian cookies. I love little unexpected gestures like this in restaurants. I wish more restaurateurs recognized the value in offering up something unexpected but welcomed, however small. The dinner was not inexpensive but I left feeling like I'd been spoiled by a friend; the service and attention to detail made this an unforgettable night.

I collected my coat from the coat check girl and tipped her well. I simply could not fathom what it would be like to work in an ocean of outerwear for hours on end, in a space smaller than my hall closet at home.

Outside ESCA, the city night still hummed. I turned the collar up on my coat and made my way back to the hotel, zigzagging between avenues and streets so I wouldn't miss a thing...

FOOD BLOG SOUTH - An Event Worth Talking About

2011-01-21T14:37:00.000-06:00

From this week's issue of Birmingham Weekly (http://www.birminghamweekly.com/)

"Shaun Chavis has been holding out on us, Birmingham. This is a woman who clearly has enough talent and ideas and passion for all of us and she has been keeping it under wraps. With a degree in Culinary Arts and a Masters in Gastronomy from Boston University, Shaun is a woman who wears many hats: Foods Editor at Oxmoor House, facilitator of the Birmingham Foodie Book Club (www.foodiebookclub.wordpress.com), creator of the the Birmingham’s Best Home Cooks blog (birminghamcooks.wordpress.com). A word of caution: after this weekend’s Food Blog South symposium (foodblogsouth.com), her secret will be out.

Along with Jason Horn, food writer and author of www.themessyepicure.com, Shaun has been working tirelessly to put together what promises to be a full day of conversation and discussion on all things related to food blogging. They have thoughtfully selected speakers to talk about everything from how to start writing a food blog to food styling and photography to getting published. And while the focus of this event is definitely the South, notable speakers are coming in from all over, including Kim Severson of the New York Times and famed cookbook literary agent, Lisa Ekus.

The Food Blog South project began, as most great things do, as something else entirely. When the Desert Island Supply Company – or DISCO – (desertislandsupplyco.com) project began about a year ago, Shaun became an immediate supporter. Founded by Chip Brantley and run by a committed cadre of volunteers, this non-profit writing program is dedicated to empowering students to tell stories through effective writing. Shaun says, “I saw the value in DISCO and wanted to do a fundraiser to help support Chip’s work. My first thought was to do an adult writing workshop and that morphed into a discussion on food blogging.” Chip Brantley is a food writer himself, author of The Perfect Fruit: Good Breeding, Bad Seeds and the Hunt for the Elusive Pluot and cofounder of CookThink.com, a website that lets you search for recipes based on your current cravings and feelings (genius alert!).

So, beginning at 8:00 am this Saturday morning, foodies from all over the South will come together at Woodrow Hall in Woodlawn. This restored turn-of-the-century Masonic lodge is the perfect setting for an event like this: grand and historical yet cozy and intimate. Finer Grind Coffee (finergrind.com) will be offering their sought-after Third Wave Coffee (artisnal coffee with qualities like that of a fine wine.) Digital storyteller and Southern raconteur Tanner Latham (tannerlatham.com) will set the tone for the event, by discussing what life means below the Mason-Dixon line, helping everyone get in touch with their inner Southerner.

The first breakout sessions begin at 9:00 am where participants must choose between attending Andre Natta’s “Blogging 101” (dresramblings.com) where you will learn how to get started in your food blog expedition or “Marketing Your Blog” with Christy Jordan. Ms. Jordan is the poster child for successful food blogging; her SouthernPlate.com website has more than 13 million unique visitors every month. Both speakers are so well credentialed in their topics; it will be hard to choose which one to attend.

At 10:00 am, the next session starts. “Recipe Development” will be led by Bon Appetit Y’all cookbook author Virginia Willis (virginiawillis.com). Joining her will be Birmingham’s own Allison Lewis, whose Ingredients, Inc. blog (ingredientsinc.net) has a huge national following. Allison’s first cookbook will hit stores this spring. In addition to talking about recipe development, the two will touch on “The Southern State of Mind” as it pertains to food blogging. If you’d rather learn how to make the most of social media, then tune into John-Bryan Hopkins, the Foodimentary Guy (foodimentary.com). His tweets might be local but they are definitely heard around the world.

At 11:00 am, all event participants will regroup for a panel discussion, moderated by Erin Shaw Street (erinstreet.typepad.com), an associate editor at Southern Living. Shaun Chavis thinks the topic of “Southern Seafood After the Gulf Oil Spill Disaster” is meant to differentiate this conference from other food blogging events. It is a sensitive subject with far-reaching consequences. Not only topical and thought-provoking, the Gulf Coast oil spill has had a domino-like effect on the region that has been documented by a myriad of people. Panel participants include John Bowler, Regional Seafood Coordinator for Whole Foods Market South Region; Ashley Hall, whose Third Coast Byways blog (thirdcoastbyways.com) documented the effects of the oil spill; and Stacey Little, the marketing manager for Legacy: Partners in Environmental Education, a statewide non-profit organization. In his free time, Stacey also blogs about Southern food on SouthernBite.com.

There are high expectations when it comes to providing lunch at an event like this. Sponsored by Whole Foods Market and created by Dyron’s Low-Country Restaurant (dyronslowcountry.com) in Crestline Village, a grits bar should fit the bill just fine. If guests aren’t full after dining on salad and pork-, shrimp-, and vegetable-topped bowls of grits, they can always opt for the bread pudding dessert. When asked what participating in this event meant to him, owner Dyron Powell said, “I am excited about influencing the palates of a whole new group of folks. I hope people taste how great low country food is and come see us at the restaurant.” Whole Foods Market Mountain Brook Marketing Team Leader Laura Brooks Bright adds, “We are thrilled to have the opportunity to be a part of this dialogue with some of the South’s best bloggers and writers. The Southern food movement sweeping its way through this country is a direct result of Southern chefs and writers who are out there telling the stories of Southern food. By being a part of this event, Whole Foods Market is proud to be able to “thanks” to all of those people for helping keep our fabulous food traditions alive!”

After lunch, the breakout sessions begin anew with Birmingham’s Wade Kwon (wadekwon.com) who will discuss “Blogging for Business.” As founder of the Birmingham Blogging Academy, Mr. Kwon knows how to help businesses maximize this medium. Opposite Wade will be Lisa Ekus (lisaekus.com) who will address the subject of taking your blog to the next level – into print -- with “From Blog to Book.” Ms. Ekus is a literary agent and publicist who has shepherded and represented cookbook authors, chefs and culinary elite for more than 28 years. It is a real coup to have her on the dais.

At 2:00 pm, Southern Living’s own Jennifer Davick (jenniferdavick.com), senior food photographer, and Marian Cooper Cairns (mariancoopercairns.com), food stylist, lead a 90-minute session on food photography. Not stopping at selecting the right F-stops, this team will talk about the tricks and tools you need to make food come alive in pictures. Three 30-minute sessions run opposite the food photography tutorial: Amanda Storey discusses how to blog about an issue in “Write a Post, Start a Movement” – something she knows about firsthand (foodrevivial.com); Taste of the South editor, Brooke Bell will talk about turning your food blog into paid freelance work; and Brys Stephens of Charleston’s City Paper will address another hot button subject, restaurant reviews. He takes on the current controversy of those bloggers who may choose to disregard Craig Claiborne’s founding principles for restaurant critics.

Any Southern food blogger worth their weight knows about Greensboro’s PieLab (pielab.org). Started in March 2009 by a group of designers and progressive thinkers who believed in the power of pie, these kind folks will share their stuff at the afternoon stretch and snack of Food Blog South.

High on pie, the symposium ends with a very special appearance by New York Times columnist and keynote speaker Kim Severson (kimseverson.com). Author of last year’s best selling memoir Spoon Fed, Ms. Severson will conduct writing exercises as she encourages participants to do more with their blogs. Encouraging writers to go from banal to brilliant, she wants these authors to realize the power of their words and do more than just talk about what they made for dinner last night.

Imbued with ideas and inspiration but maybe still a little hungry, participants can discuss their thoughts with one another at the afternoon’s informal reception. Beer from Good People Brewing (goodpeoplebrewing.com) and wine from Whole Foods Market (wholefoodsmarket.com) will complement what Susan Rice, the Truffle lady, and a chef concoct. Looking to give Europeans a run for their money, Susan Rice is growing truffles on her rural farm about 50 miles southwest of Raleigh, North Carolina. Go to www.SusanRiceTruffles.com to learn more about her operation.

There will be a book signing at the reception as well. Books can be purchased and signed by authors Kim Severson, Virginia Willis, Christy Jordan and Chip Brantley.

Symposium tickets are still available at www.foodblogsouth.com. Use code FBSoriginals to secure a $20 discount on the $135 ticket price. But if the stars do not align for you to attend the entire Food Blog South event, you can still join everyone at the after-party, being held at Parkside Café at 4036 Fifth Avenue South. Stop by after 8:00 pm to catch up with others on sessions you might have missed. For her part, Shaun Chavis will need more than one day of rest, after pulling off an event like this. But after all is said and done, her fervent hope is that with this conversation, folks will realize “the power of bloggers to influence what and how we eat.” Well said."

Actually this event is NOW SOLD OUT! So very exciting. Stay tuned for a follow piece to run here...

XOXO,
Christiana

Snow Day Pop Up Party

2011-01-12T20:40:00.000-06:00

Word of the impending SNOWPOCALYPSE spread like wildfire around town.

By Sunday afternoon, the bread aisle at The Pig had been picked clean.

As the first flakes fell that night, and we all received the call that school was cancelled on Monday, it was like what I imagine a Hurricane Party is like on the Gulf Coast (pre-Katrina, mind you.) Everyone took stock of what they had on hand and made a plan.
Tracy and Gordon were generous enough to offer up their house for lunch. Little did they know that when folks showed up around 11:30 am, they would be there until well after dark (when we got the NEXT call that school was cancelled!)
Amanda had been dying to try her hand at making bread. She dug out the recipe, measured all the ingredients and called me in to supervise. Less than a couple hours later, we had two loaves of piping hot homemade white bread.
Tracy already had a couple pots of soups on the stove. I found homemade gumbo and Brunswick stew in my freezer and loaded those in the kids' discarded Red Rider wagon. I added the rice cooker and a roll of sausage pinwheels to cook and we hit the slippery street.
Kids flew past us on sleds or pulled behind a neighbor's golf cart in an old plastic pool as we trudged up the hill. Soon, another neighbor arrived with chili and still others came in with crockpots full of Santa Fe soup. It seems our neighborhood was ready for this weather!

In the Myers-Briggs test, I rank a true 50/50 between Extrovert and Introvert. In other words, I crave a party but I also need "alone time" to recharge. This was very apparent late yesterday afternoon, when I had to take a break from the all of the activity. I slipped out, walked home and grabbed a little nap. Of course, it didn't take much to get me back to Tracy's house. The big Auburn/Oregon game was about to start and more people had arrived to join in the fun. Knowing Tracy wasn't planning on feeding all these people dinner too, I rummaged through my pantry, looking for loaves and fishes.

I grabbed a huge bag of fresh spinach, some slab bacon, tomatoes, baby carrots, sofrito, pre-made pizza crusts, and homemade chicken enchiladas. I also grabbed some macaroni n' cheese and hot dogs for the kids. There was still plenty of soup left but I put together a large salad with the spinach, bacon and tomatoes. Our friend Chris arrived with his famous ratatouille and grilled pork chops and another feast was complete.

After two days off from school, I am not ready to ask for another. I think we've all hit our limit of "together time." But, I take comfort in knowing that we can come together as a neighborhood and put together a killer pop-up party. Just. Like. That.

Brunswick Stew

makes a ton

Ingredients:
2.5 pounds bone-in chicken pieces (about 6 breasts and 6 legs)
2 pounds ground round
2 large yellow onions, chopped
1.5 pounds outside sliced pork from Full Moon BBQ, (chop at home)
2 28-ounce cans San Marzano tomatoes and their juices
1 8-ounce bottle Worcestershire
1 16-ounce bottle ketchup
½ cup yellow mustard
1 cup cider vinegar
4 tablespoons sugar
2 cups fresh/frozen corn
1 16-ounce package frozen lima beans
Tabasco, to taste

Directions:
1) Poach the chicken in water or chicken broth until cooked through. Remove from liquid and let rest until cool enough to handle. Pull meat from bones and set aside. Discard bones.
2) In a large stockpot, brown the ground round and pour off the fat. Add the chopped onions and sauté until translucent. Add the chicken meat, pork and tomatoes. Stir to combine.
3) Add remaining ingredients and stir to combine. Simmer for at least thirty minutes or longer, if possible. Season to taste.

Notes:
• Freezes well.
• You never know where your next best recipe is going to come from. Case in point? This one comes from my contractor, Steve Varner or Creekside Construction. I NEVER liked Brunswick stew before tasting this one. It is rich and hearty and a tad vinegar-y which I really adore. Just like Steve.

Meyer Lemons

2011-01-05T16:12:00.000-06:00

I have long been obsessed with Meyer lemons. My husband picked one up from the kitchen counter the other day and even asked, “What is it with you and the Meyer lemons? It seems like every year, you get on a big kick and then it fades away.” Well, it’s only natural since they are only in season for a short period of time each winter. I stock up and use them in every way imaginable!

For those of you put there who aren’t familiar with Meyer lemons, let me offer a little background. Meyer lemons are thought by many to be a hybrid of a lemon and an orange. Imported from China by F.N. Meyer in 1908, they are sweeter than regular lemons. They are shaped like traditional lemons but their thinner skin is a little yellow-orange.

Preserved lemons are a traditional ingredient in some African and Middle Eastern cuisines. Meyer lemons are sliced and packed in lemon juice and salt and sealed in a jar for at least a week. You can buy preserved lemons already prepared but, at this time of year, it is easy enough to make your own.

slice lemon longways, remove seeds

pack into a clean glass jar

fill jar with Kosher salt

pack with salt and add lemon juice to cover

Of course, it is always easy to find a way to use these beauties in a dessert. In Chris & Idie Hastings' Hot and Hot Fish Club Cookbook, there is a recipe for Meyer lemon meringue tarts that sounds divine. This week I tried my hand at making shortbread using the zest and juice of a couple Meyer lemons. These cookies are easy to put together and would be lovely served at an early spring garden club meeting.

Meyer Lemon Shortbread Squares
Makes 36 – 40 cookies

Ingredients:
4 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking powder
2 tablespoons Meyer lemon zest (from about two Meyer lemons)
3 sticks unsalted butter, softened
4 tablespoons honey
1 cup powdered sugar
2 tablespoons sugar

Glaze:
1 ½ cups powdered sugar
¼ cup Meyer lemon juice (from about two Meyer lemons)

Directions:
1) Sift together first four ingredients and set aside.
2) In the bowl of a large stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream together the butter, honey and sugars. Slowly add in the flour mixture and combine until the mixture makes a firm dough.
3) Divide the dough in half and roll each into 1 – 1 ½” wide logs. Roll logs in plastic wrap and seal out air. Gently square up the logs with your hands. Refrigerate until firm, at least 4 hours.
4) Preheat oven to 325ºF.
5) Unwrap logs and slice into ¼” –thick pieces. Place squares on a parchment-lined cookie sheet, at least 1” apart. Bake for 18 – 20 minutes, until just barely golden. Remove from oven and cool on a wire rack.
6) Make glaze and pour over cooled cookies. Serve immediately or keep in an airtight container for up to one week.

shortbread squares, cooling, with a glaze

glazed Meyer lemon shortbread cookies

For many years, you could only find Meyer lemons in specialty grocery stores or on-line. Nowadays, they are widely available starting in mid-November for a few short months. Their sunny color and tangy flavor will brighten up the darkest winter days. If you find yourself with too many Meyer lemons, you can freeze their zest and juice for a few months – if they last that long!

Questions, comments or ideas? Please feel free to email me at Christiana.Roussel@gmail.com

Sofrito

2010-12-30T18:08:00.000-06:00

I have an article in this week's issue of Birmingham Weekly (http://www.birminghamweekly.com/) which describes a recent Iberian Feast we had at my house. The recipe for the tortilla Espanola is in the newspaper and the recipe for the accompanying sofrito follows. I hope you have the chance to host a feast like this of your own!

Sofrito

Ingredients:
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium to large yellow onion, roughly grated
1 green bell pepper, seeded and cut into ¼” pieces
3 garlic cloves, roughly grated or chopped
1 28-ounce can peeled San Marzano tomatoes in juices
2 teaspoons Spanish sweet paprika
salt and pepper, to taste

Directions:
1) Add oil to a large heavy skillet set over medium heat. Add onions and toss to coat. Saute until translucent, about 7 minutes. Do not let them brown.
2) Add bell pepper and continue to sauté for another 5 minutes. Add garlic and cook for 1 more minute. Add tomatoes and paprika. Use a wooden spoon to break up the tomatoes and incorporate. Let simmer for 15 minutes, allowing the flavors to mellow and blend.

This simple sauce is excellent with tortilla Espanola or served over rice or eggs. It is also perfect just sopped up with crusty bread.

These are a few of my favorite things…

2010-12-15T13:01:00.000-06:00

I am a list maker by nature. I have notebooks in all shapes and sizes where I make a myriad of notes: topics I want to write about, dishes I want to make, stuff I have to do, stuff I want to do, ideas for presents for people I love. Every year I think I’ll master the art of subterfuge, keeping a running list of things I hear people wish for (“what I wouldn’t give for a whatchamahooie.” or “I really need a flubbertigibit.”). I smile to myself, thinking I am so clever, as I make a note of the item and plan to surprise them with the PERFECT present come December 25th. Then the whole plan falls apart when I lose the list. Usually around mid-November that damn list goes missing and I have to rely on my sieve-like memory for ideas.

As I sat down recently to try and remember what those fabulous things were, I ended up making a list of my own favorite things. Maybe there is something on this list that is perfect for you or a loved one. If you decide to purchase something off the list, I encourage you to seek out a local merchant and buy from them. While Amazon and Zappos make our lives easier, it is the local independent retailers who make our lives interesting. Happy shopping!

1) All-Clad 4-quart sauté pan with lid
My mom just gave me this pan for my birthday and I am giddy about its prospects in my kitchen. Even my husband recognized the benefits of its manageable capacity, straight-sides, tight-fitting lid and all around good looks. After I finished unwrapping it, he gave the pan a little pet and cooed, “Good things are going to come out of you, little pan.” He knows…

2) Cork shelf liner
When we remodeled the house last year and I finally got my “big girl kitchen”, I vowed to have a place for everything and put everything in its place. The real me reappeared about a month after unpacking and the counter is not as bare as I would like for it to be. But, the one helpful trick I used is lining each drawer with cork con-tact paper. I store all of my plates and pans in oversized drawers and this liner keeps everything from sliding around. My gadgets stay put, my glass bowls don’t crash, and my measuring spoons are just where I left them (if I remembered to put them away, that is.)
http://www.amazon.com/Tact-04F-C6421-06-18-Inch-4-Feet-Adhesive/dp/B000WEPD6U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=kitchen&qid=1292429826&sr=1-1

3) Pizza dough from Whole Foods Market
No trip to my local Whole Foods would be complete without picking up a bag of handmade pizza dough. Available fresh or frozen, this stuff is a weeknight dinner lifesaver. Of course it makes a great Italian pie but it also makes fantastic calzones and breadsticks. I used it recently when making Dorie Greenspan’s Chicken in a Pot, sealing the lid on the Le Crueset to steam that lovely bird.
Click here for that recipe: http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052748704584804575645042857457282.html

4) Argan oil
Okay, so I like to look good while I’m in my big girl kitchen and part of that is good hair. Living in the South can wreak havoc on one’s ‘do but this stuff really helps keep my locks lustrous and in check. Angie at Fringe Salon in Homewood introduced me to Agadir when I last had an express keratin treatment. The argan oil extends the life of the process and smells great too!
http://www.agadirint.com/AgadirArganSpray.html

5) Joseph and Joseph Scoop
I picked up several of these at Birmingham Bake & Cook Company recently. Like all Joseph and Joseph products, the scoop was designed to improve an already-useful kitchen gadget, transforming it into an indispensable tool. And when their garlic chopper, The Rocker, gets back in stock, I will be first in line to buy one. Genius!
http://www.josephjoseph.com/colanders-and-strainers/scoop-colander
http://www.bakeandcookco.com/

6) Beak-nosed knife
A trip to Germany a few years ago allowed me the opportunity to stock up on a few Wustof knives on a budget. I love my chef’s knives and my santoku but no knife is more indispensable than my beak-nosed one. Also called a peeling knife or turning knife, it becomes an extension of your hand, giving you the ability to effortlessly hull a strawberry or peel an apple or spear a caper. It is as if your forefinger were transformed into a magical stainless steel blade. Widely available in all price ranges, this one is a keeper.
http://www.wusthof.com/desktopdefault.aspx/tabid-31/121_read-139/52_view-166/categories-210

7) Local Ingredients
I am an ardent fan of many local products – the ones that add a depth of flavor not found elsewhere. These are the pantry staples that expedite meals in my house. They also make lovely hostess gifts or stocking stuffers. And if you aren’t lucky enough to live around these parts, simply call The General Store at Pepper Place and they’ll ship anywhere in the U.S.A.
http://www.pepperplacegeneralstore.com/
Make sure to include any of the following items in your order:
* Not Yo Mama’s Pepper Marmalade or Bloody Mary Mix
* Hastings Meat and Fish Rubs (from the folks at Hot and Hot Fish Club)
* Alecia’s Tomato Chutney
* McEwen & Sons Grits

8) Dogs
If you had told me that I would one day have three dogs under my roof at the same time, I would have called you crazy. Life is hectic enough with a full-time family and a couple of part-time jobs. But you dog-owners out there know that nothing compares to a wet kiss and a wagging tail that makes the whole body shake. It doesn’t matter if we’ve been gone for five minutes or five hours, Ginger, Nutmeg and Ruby go crazy when their people come home. They keep me company when I’m at the computer and help clean up when I’m cooking. They snore and smile and protect and love unconditionally. Just like my kids, they each arrived with their own personality and I wouldn’t trade ‘em for anything.

9) Garden & Gun subscription
Arriving ten times a year, this publication is treated like gold in our house. Printed on heavy, creamy, dreamy paper, Garden & Gun magazine presents the best of the South in a style that is both elegant and accessible. The staff ferrets out craftsmen, legends and local treasures. The writers are raconteurs and I long to be one of them. A confession: I sometimes fear I am not cool enough to be a subscriber but I bet you are…
http://gardenandgun.com/

10) Fancy salts
I have been obsessed with salt for a while now. In reading up on this mineral, I was blown away by sheer volume of varieties out there and the multitude of ways it can enhance a recipe. Some of these salts can cost a pretty penny but a little goes a long way. Artisan Salt offers plenty, from Alder-Smoked to Australian Flake. Facebook friend and chef Virginia Willis recently launched her own line of products at My Southern Pantry. The Pecan Smoked Salt would make lovely stocking stuffers for those hard-to-please foodies.
http://www.artisansalt.com/
http://www.virginiawillis.com/smoked-salt.html

Weekly Menu

2010-12-07T22:06:00.000-06:00

I ran into a friend at Whole Foods Market recently. She seemed a little harried, randomly throwing foodstuffs in her basket, before rushing off to pick up her youngest from Mothers Day Out. Before heading down the wine aisle, she asked me to start emailing her a weekly menu and shopping list, which got me to thinking...

At present, I am not ready to commit to producing one a week but when inspired, I love to share. Here is last week's menu:
* Meatless Monday: Smoky Black Beans with Quinoa and Brown Rice
http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/Smoky-Black-Beans-100851
* Tuesday: Chicken Stew with Tomatoes & White Beans
http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/Chicken-Stew-with-Tomatoes-and-White-Beans-102665
* Wednesday: Lamb Meatballs
http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/Lamb-Kofte-with-Yogurt-Sauce-and-Muhammara-356770
* Thursday: my husband and I went out so the kids had their favorite, homemade tacos
* Friday: Chicken with Tarragon & Leeks
http://www.realsimple.com/food-recipes/browse-all-recipes/chicken-tarragon-leeks-00000000011463/index.html

There are a lot of people who like to say it costs a fortune to shop at Whole Foods Market. I will be the first to say that it is very easy to fill your cart with precious treats from around the world, exotic ingredients and high-end wines and cheeses. But with a little planning and conscious-shopping, you can actually save money shopping there. Almost anything you need to buy can be cut down to size. For example, if you need only a 1" piece of Parmiggiano Reggiano, the Specialty team is happy to cut what you need. In the meat department, you will only be paying for what is edible; no more opening a beef tenderloin package and having to trim off eight-ounces of fat and gristle. This is just standard operating practice at Whole Foods and only one example of how to save on quality ingredients.

Back to the menu, I start by printing each recipe and determining which ingredients I already have. Next, I highlight the items I need to buy. I also have this great pad of paper from KnockKnock* entitled "All Out Of" which lists stuff in the grocery store by category. Everyone in my house knows where the list is and can check off what we run out of or need to buy. No excuses!

Now I am ready to shop. I have my All Out Of list and my highlighted recipes clipped together and I am ready to go. Once I make it through the store and finally get to the check-out lane, I may have added one or two extra things, but not much. If I have done this right, I won't have to go back to the store for the rest of the week!

I made a plan and stuck with it, not giving in to familial pangs of whimsy when someone wanted to order pizza. I spent part of one morning doing all my mise en place -- fancy French term for prep -- so everything was ready to cook when I was. Oh, and I tripled the Chicken Stew with Tomatoes and White Beans: one for us, one went into the freezer for Christmas company and one I used to swap dinners with a friend. We do that every so often: she'll make an extra dinner and pack it up for me and I'll do the same for her. It helps that our kids eat what we put in front of them or know how to make themselves a sandwich.

This is what worked for us this week. Next week is a whole other story. Do you have great tricks to make meal time run more smoothly at your house? If so, I'd love to hear! Shoot me an email at ChristianaRoussel@charter.net!

* http://www.knockknock.biz/catalog/categories/pads/kk-pads/all-out-of-red-pad/

Last Minute Comfort Food

2010-11-29T20:10:00.000-06:00

We arrived home yesterday afternoon from a lovely week long sail in the British Virgin Islands. It was a fantastic trip, filled with stops at Beef Island for the Full Moon Festival, Cooper Island's Manchioneel Bay, Spanish town, the Baths, the Bitter End Yacht Club and more.

I know better than to complain about the piles of laundry I'm now left with or the tan lines or the mosquito bites or the unflattering pictures of me in a bikini. You can't complain about enjoying lobster for Thanksgiving -- in flip-flops no less.

But, I was SO excited to get back home, to my spacious shower and king-sized bed. This also meant I was back in charge of dinner. I did not have the energy to make a big grocery run -- just get the basics and let the rest of the week take care of itself. I needed a tried-and-true family favorite, preferably one on a budget since we'd done so much in the last seven days.

Fitting the bill so nicely was a menu of grilled thick-cut pork chops, served on a bed of cheese grits and topped with a healthy dose of Alecia's Tomato Chutney. New York Times contributor and Southern Foodways Alliance founder John T. Edge calls the chutney "the little condiment that could". It is a fantastic staple that is at home on pork, mixed into ground beef for burgers, stuffed under chicken skin or that ubiquitous Southern favorite: poured over a block of cream cheese and served with Ritz crackers. This simple blend of tomatoes, sugar, vinegar, ginger, raisins, garlic, red peppers and salt adds a complex note to anything it touches.

Season the chops with a your favorite seasoning blend, even just salt and pepper will do but I like something with a little kick to it. Rub with a little olive oil and grill to perfection, about seven minutes per side on a medium-hot grill. Remove to a platter and tent with foil. Let the meat rest at least seven minutes before slicing. While the meat grills, make your grits, adding in a heap of the grated cheese of your choice at the end. If the grits are done before anything else, just pop in a warm oven until you're ready to serve.

I sliced the chops to serve but you could certainly just place a big chop on a pile of cheese grits. Add at least a tablespoon of Alecia's Tomato Chutney on top and serve. A small spinach side salad would be a great accompaniment.

You can find Alecia's Tomato Chutney in Birmingham at places like The Pig and The Western. Check them out on line at http://www.aleciaschutney.com/. A jar will usually run you around seven dollars but a little goes a long way. Not counting the chutney in this dish, I fed four people for under ten bucks. That's my kind of comfort food.

Now all I have to do is figure out what to serve these people in my house the rest of the week...

Food Summit - recap

2010-11-19T14:09:00.000-06:00

I don't pretend to have legions of fans but I know there are a few of you out there who regularly check in on this blog. I have not been posting as much lately as I had hoped to but I have a good excuse. Really!

Along with a few other women, I have been working to improve the quality of food served in our children's schools here in Mountain Brook, Alabama. This is no small feat!

I like a good fight, especially when I believe so strongly in the outcome.

Last night, we had over 40 people come to the Emmet O'Neal Library in Crestline and learn about the way our food system currently operates. We talked about why its important to feed our kids healthy wholesome food and we discussed ways we can improve.

In my wildest dreams, I never thought people would show up the way they did, listen as intently as they did and stay for as long as they did. Our discussion went almost to nine o'clock! And there was even an Alabama game going on at the same time! Of course, having wine and cheese from Whole Foods Market helped too.

We made a lot of progress but we have a long way to go. We may never attain anything close to Alice Waters' Edible Schoolyard Project in Berkeley, California but we can try. This is such a strong message to send to our children.

For those of you who check in here for a new recipe to try, I won't disappoint. The following article was published in yesterday's Birmingham Weekly and contains a fabulous Quinoa and Roasted Vegetable Burrito recipe from a local chef. I have been doing a lot more writing for this publication and I am really honored to have a forum for my "culinary musings". One of my immediate goals is to write an article for publication in Garden & Gun Magazine. This is a pretty lofty goal so please keep your fingers crossed and send good prayers and ju-ju my way.

Please check back again soon. I have lots I am thinking about for the holidays...

Love,
Christiana

Food Summit: Talking the Talk and Walking the Walk

Birmingham Weekly

The Fifth Annual Food Summit was held in Birmingham’s Lakeview District last week. The theme for this event was “Bringing Everyone to the Table” which could not be more appropriate. Over a hundred people gathered at the Avon Theater to listen, share knowledge, network, rally, and learn new tools for ameliorating the food systems here in Birmingham. People came from all walks of life – non-profit activists, private citizens, policy-makers, mothers, restaurateurs – to explore food policy. The one thing we all had in common was our desire to be change agents in this system.

It was exhilarating to enter the theater that morning, the air filled with a positive energy that almost felt electric, such was the desire to improve this facet of life in Birmingham. There were many familiar faces but lots of new ones as well. Folks sat down at long tables, lined with butcher-block paper as the session began, with a special welcome from Mayor William Bell. His message was clear: universal access to decent affordable food is a key element in the economic development and success of our fair city.

John Talmage, President of Social Compact (www.socialcompact.org) gave the morning’s keynote address. It was fascinating to hear him discuss his non-profit organization’s efforts to provide information to encourage private investment in inner-city neighborhoods. In other words, Social Compact can provide real and significant data on where the next grocery store should be built in a city. Data that goes beyond mere census figures becomes a powerful tool in business development AND economic recovery. Whereas most food-policy intellectuals call an area without access to a major chain grocery store a ‘food desert’, Social Compact would label this area a ‘misunderstood market’. Demonstrable data on the real viability of such areas can foster corporate partnerships which benefit all parties involved.

Much in the same way that information is power, we learned that data matters.

At this point, it was time to split up into various break out sessions, with participants attending forums on a variety of topics: Advocacy – Using Your Voice for Change; The Grocery Gap; Community Gardens; Food Policy Councils; What is Food Security?; School Lunches; The High Cost of Low Priced Food; and Alternative Shopping Options, among others. Of particular interest to me is the subject of School Lunches. Everyone has a bailiwick and what we feed kids happens to be mine.

I am very fortunate to live in a part of town that has excellent public schools. Moving to Alabama from Texas eight years ago, the quality of my children’s education was one of the most important reasons my husband and I chose to live where we do. I have been blown away by the high caliber of teachers we have, the access to cutting-edge technology and a passion for excellence at every turn. Almost every turn. I am completely under-whelmed by our food and the system’s approach to what and how we feed our children.

Of course I am grateful for all that we have here, and I realize that so many others do not have access to what we do. But I also believe that we are seriously dumbing down our children in a fundamental part of life when we feed them pizza, corn dogs and chicken nuggets and call it lunch. When adults decide that children should be entertained by food and employ high-fructose corn syrup to get them to drink milk, we have failed. So, while I might not have the ability to fix a whole city but I can work on improving a corner of my world.

In this way, I became a willing conduit for all that electricity in the air at the Food Summit. I have been working with other concerned local parents to improve our school food and gained a lot from this symposium. I gleaned valuable negotiating skills to use with my next meeting with the school superintendent. I heard a CNP Nutrition Supervisor discuss the complexities of navigating federal and state guidelines when purchasing cafeteria food. I discovered resources we all have access to in showing our children we care about what they eat.

But the highlight of the Food Summit was the Taste $2.78 event held at Pepper Place Saturday afternoon. Local chefs were challenged to create kid-friendly healthy meals that cost no more than $2.78 per person, the money that will be provided if the Child Nutrition Reauthorization Act is passed. This was a formidable task indeed.

In rating each dish, I brought along my secret weapon: my 12-year-old daughter, Amanda. This is a kid who’s favorite meal is anything with capers. She can clean a plate of carpaccio faster than you can say “Bottega” but she’s still just a kid and can be persnickety. She’ll be the first to tell you that some entries were more popular than others.

There was a delicious frittata featuring brightly hued vegetables, a creamy mac n’ cheese with roasted broccoli but the hands down favorites were from Whole Foods Market and Indian Springs School. The pair from Whole Foods proffered a Croque Monsieur (fancy name for grilled ham and cheese) served with Honeycrisp apple slices and a tablespoon of Cocoa Haze (what Nutella wishes it were.) It was simple well-balanced fare prepared with high-quality ingredients. Amanda cleaned her plate.

Wendy Bowman, Executive Chef at Indian Springs School, wowed everyone with her Black Bean and Sweet Potato Burrito with Corn, Quinoa and Spinach. Deemed “phenomenal” by my secret weapon, this was a flour tortilla teeming with quinoa and seasonal ingredients that had been minimally fussed with. Amanda and I fought over the last bite. And this was a dish that had been created and produced for 88-cents a serving. Pause to reflect on that achievement. Chef Bowman graciously agreed to share her recipe and even scaled it back for the home cook (See below).

Food like this is nothing less than serious fuel for young brains, challenged with taking on everything from spelling and social studies to AP History and Calculus. We ask a lot of our students today. The least we can do is power them up to succeed. You are encouraged to find out what children in your school system eat and how you can improve it.

Black Bean and Sweet Potato Burrito with Corn, Quinoa and Spinach
Serves 4

Burrito Ingredients:
1 15 ½ ounce can black beans, drained and rinsed
4 cups vegetable stock (or enough to thoroughly cover black beans)
1 chipotle pepper in adobo sauce
1 small onion, finely diced
2 sweet potatoes
2 cups yellow corn
1 cup quinoa, thoroughly washed
3 cups vegetable stock
2 handfuls baby spinach, washed and stems removed
4-ounces shredded Monterrey Jack cheese, shredded
4 10-inch flour or whole grain tortillas
1 bunch fresh cilantro, chopped and divided (half in quinoa, half in pico de gallo)
Salt, Pepper, Cumin, and Chili Powder to taste.

Pico De Gallo
In a medium bowl, toss together:
4 Roma tomatoes, seeded and diced
1 jalapeno pepper, seeded and diced (to taste)
1 clove garlic, minced
1 small purple onion, finely chopped
half of cilantro from above
Season to taste with olive oil, salt and pepper.

Directions:
1) Preheat oven to 350ºF.
2) Put beans in pot and cover with plenty of vegetable stock. Bring beans to a boil then reduce heat to a simmer. Stir beans only to prevent sticking, too much stirring can break the beans down and make them mushy.
3) Sauté one onion until soft and puree with 1 chipotle pepper and add to beans and cooking liquid. Stir to incorporate.
4) Peel and medium dice sweet potatoes. Season with olive oil, salt, pepper, cumin and chili powder. Roast until soft, about 25 minutes.
5) Heat olive oil in large shallow pot until almost smoking, add quinoa and stir until quinoa smells nutty in aroma and is completely coated in oil. Add vegetable stock to deglaze the bottom of the pot.
6) Add corn and season to taste with salt, cumin and chili powder. Remove from heat and let cool slightly. Add half of the chopped cilantro and toss.
7) Assemble as follows: Put one ounce of Monterrey Jack cheese in each tortilla and top with ¼ cup of quinoa mixture. Top with raw spinach and roll up into a burrito. Wrap each burrito in aluminum foil and place on a sheet pan. Bake for 20 minutes or until thoroughly heated.
8) Remove foil and serve with fresh Pico de Gallo.
Recipe adapted from one provided by Indian Springs Executive Chef, Wendy Bowman.

My Secret Weapon in food tasting

Spinach & Orzo on a Saturday afternoon

2010-11-08T17:11:00.000-06:00

I love weekends. It's just the time to hunker down with family and friends and throw schedules out the window. I try to hit Whole Foods Market on Fridays and stock up on staples so we can cook from home all weekend.

Since the kids take their lunches to school every day (that's a WHOLE other blog entry!) they are pretty tired of sandwiches and cold lunches by Saturday. So this weekend, we had dinner for lunch. I'd planned to make a tossed spinach and orzo dish that night but everyone was ready for it by noon.

While I marinated some steaks and put the water on to boil, I rummaged through the fridge for any "Mediterranean" ingredients I had on hand. I found a big tub of marinated olives and feta from Costco and gave those a rough chop and threw them in a bowl. Next went in several handfuls of fresh baby spinach and sliced basil leaves. A quarter-cup chopped sun-dried tomatoes, some capers, a little chopped Italian parsley, a grating of lemon zest and a toss to coat.

This is one of those dishes you can't mess up. Just keep tasting (with clean utensils!) throughout the process to make sure there is a good balance of flavor.

The pasta was cooked and drained and added to the bowl with the rest of the ingredients while it was still warm, helping the flavors meld. I took the steaks off the grill and let them rest before slicing to ensure juiciness. I scooped big pasta portions into everyone's bowls and topped with slices of warm steak. We passed the Italian dressing so each person could make the dish their own. The whole meal came together in about thirty minutes and cost less than ten or fifteen dollars for all of us. Use grilled chicken thighs (a personal favorite) or leftover rotisserie chicken meat, and that cost would come way down.

One of our favorite dressings is made locally by a woman named Thula. My neighbor Lissy buys the dressing by the case and we split it. When I'm feeling nice, I'll even share a bottle with friends. One of the charms of Thula's Homemade Vinaigrette is that it seems like every batch is different and every one is wonderful. And you know, I just received an email from Thula the other day, suggesting I place my own order before the holidays. Hmm, I'm feeling pretty nice these days; I'm gonna have to order a whole bunch...

Want to order some of your own? Just send her a note: Thula Davis [thulad@charter.net] and tell her I sent you!

The Spice Girls (originally published in Birmingham Weekly)

2010-11-04T13:13:00.001-05:00

Posted on November 4, 2010: in print and on line at http://www.birminghamweekly.com/
The Spice Girls
INTERNATIONAL SPICES CAN BRING NEW LIFE TO A WEARY KITCHEN
By Christiana D. Roussel

I have been thinking, Padma Lakshmi and I would get along really well, maybe even be best friends. Aside from our supermodel good looks, we share a passion for witty and intelligent men. We both love to cook and eat and write about it all. Sure Padma lives in New York / Los Angeles / Las Vegas / D.C. and I’m here in Alabama. That’s really all that separates us.

Okay, a girl can dream about being a glamorous, willowy, jet-setting, superstar Top Chef hostess, right? But Padma Lakshmi also happens to be an award-winning cookbook author. The fact that she knows her way around a spice cabinet is what I admire most and try to emulate in my own kitchen.

In her book Tangy Tart Hot and Sweet: A World of Recipes for Every Day, Padma combines ingredients from a myriad of cultures. Each dish explodes in flavor. Even better, she finds a way to make her recipes multi-task. Her Chili Honey Butter is one such example. This simple blend of softened butter, honey, cayenne and salt elevates a toasted baguette to the sublime. Add a tablespoon to the skillet before sautéing cauliflower or searing a piece of fish and your senses truly awaken. I recently made her Barbecue Shrimp with Chili Honey Butter as an appetizer for a group of friends and everyone went crazy for them.

Tangy Tart Hot and Sweet introduced me to another spice which I now can’t live without: za’atar. This Middle Eastern blend is comprised of toasted sesame seeds, dried thyme and sumac. It is simple to make yourself but even easier to pick up at Penzey’s Spices in Homewood. It is traditionally used as a rub for flatbreads but you shouldn’t stop there. Add a few tablespoons to a cup of Greek yogurt and serve with grilled lamb kabobs or as a dip for fresh vegetables. Add a tablespoon to a stick of softened butter, blend in a little salt and pepper and you have an amazing compound butter. Stuff some of this under the skin of some bone-in chicken breasts and roast to perfection. Padma uses za’atar in her Carrot and Cilantro Salad. The dressing has orange oil in it which complements the tartness of the sumac so well. Anywhere you’d use the traditional French herbes de Provence, you could substitute za-atar.

This book imparts a sense of culinary adventure which is so fun. When I get tired of making the same things week-in and week-out, I am reminded to go back to the spice cabinet and experiment with something again. You can find inspiration almost anywhere in Birmingham. Drop by Red Pearl on West Valley Avenue for a true epicurean escape. While you’re waiting on your lunch order, you can search the attached grocery store for unusual herbs and ingredients. I spend the majority of any trip to Whole Foods Market in the International aisle. It is here I can find simmering sauces from India (to use up the last of that rotisserie chicken meat), go-chu-jang from Korea (lovely with shredded pork in soft tacos), or a spicy tamarind dipping sauce—perfect for beef short-ribs.

So, in a few short weeks, when you are overwhelmed by traditional turkey and dressing/stuffing, when you can’t eat another bite of pumpkin-anything, and you’re SO not ready for that onslaught of holiday candy, remember the spice cabinet. Stock up on the fresh stuff now so you’re ready; many spices lose their power after a few months.

World Traveler Chicken and Rice
Serves 6 – 8

Ingredients:
1 7.5-ounce jar marinated quartered artichoke hearts
½ cup mayonnaise
2 teaspoons Penzey’s Singapore Seasoning (may substitute curry powder)
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
2 cups cooked rice
1 cup cooked quinoa
½ red bell pepper, seeded and chopped (about 1 scant cup)
4 green onions, white and light green part only, chopped
¼ cup sliced pimiento-stuffed green olives meat from
1 rotisserie chicken, about 2 – 3 cups (see note)
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley salt and pepper, to taste

Directions:
1) Drain artichoke hearts but reserve marinade. Set artichoke hearts aside.
2) Whisk mayonnaise into reserved marinade to combine. Add Singapore Spice Blend (or curry powder) and lemon juice and stir to combine.
3) Pour cooked rice and cooked quinoa in a large bowl and toss together with a pair of forks. Pour marinade over and toss again.
4) Add in remaining ingredients (including artichoke hearts) and toss again with forks. Using forks, and not spoons, will help maintain the fluffy texture of the dish.

Notes:
• To serve, spoon mixture over a bed of lettuce and garnish with wedges of fresh tomatoes. Or, transfer mixture to a prepared casserole dish, top with a couple tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese and bake at 350ºF until warmed through and cheese is melted.
• Feel free to substitute cubes of firm tofu or leftover turkey for the chicken in this dish. You may also opt to substitute Greek yogurt or sour cream for the mayonnaise. Make this dish your own!

Christiana Roussel lives in Crestline and is a lover of all things food-related. You can follow her culinary musings on line at ChristianasKitchen.blogspot.com or on Facebook or Twitter.

Seriously Fool-Proof Roasted Chicken Breasts

2010-10-19T17:05:00.000-05:00

I like using parts of the chicken other than just the boneless skinless breasts. There is so much more flavor in the thighs. The same can be said for using meat that is still on the bone. And, these pieces have the added benefit of being less expensive.

I love roasted chicken and have tried a million different recipes – some start with a very hot oven and then have you reduce it after a few minutes. Other recipes opt for long and low temperatures. Frankly, I needed one that would work every single time, and I did not want to have to think too much. I have enough distractions.

The recipe below really fits the bill. I stuffed the skin with a bacon, herb and mustard paste but anything would really work here as long as there is a FAT and a FLAVOR.

Think olives, Belle Chevre goat cheese, oregano with a little olive oil. Or pesto. Or preserved lemons, capers and olive oil. Or roasted garlic, sautéed mushrooms, thyme and olive oil. Use what you like, what your family likes.

And if you have leftovers, HOORAY! Whip up some chicken salad with toasted walnuts and chopped celery and a few currants. Or add chunks of chicken to a tossed spinach salad with mushrooms and red onion. You can go anywhere with this one. And it doesn’t take a lot of thought, just a little imagination…

Seriously Fool-Proof Roasted Chicken Breasts
Serves 4

Ingredients:
4 strips good-quality bacon, chopped
2 large cloves garlic, minced
1 sprig rosemary, leaves only, minced
4 large sage leaves, chopped
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon olive oil
salt and pepper, to taste
4 bone-in skin-on chicken breasts

Directions:
1) Preheat oven to 500ºF.
2) Combine first six ingredients and make a paste.
3) Using your fingers, lift the skin away from the breast and place ¼ of paste under the skin and spread evenly over the meat of each breast. Season skin with salt and pepper.
4) Place breasts, skin side up, on a roasting rack and bake for 25 minutes.
5) Remove from oven and tent lightly with aluminum foil. Let rest 5 – 10 minutes before slicing or serving.

Garden & Gun Harvest Feast - Oh What a Night!

2010-10-04T13:12:00.002-05:00

The stars seemed to align last night over a tiny lake in Trussville, Alabama for the 1st Annual Garden & Gun Harvest Feast. As the sun started to fade and the air became brisk, guests arrived for an amazing evening, focused on raising funds for the fishermen of Bayou La Batre affected by the recent Gulf oil spill.

From the moment car tires turned on to tiny Farm Lake Road, guests of the event wanted for nothing. A phalanx of Range Rovers shuttled us down the long gravel drive which opened onto a scene of pure enchantment: a boat house perched over shimmering water, the rich soulful sounds of sweet Greta Gaines, an elegant raw bar, and guests decked out in early Autumn Barbour jackets and suede boots. In the distance, we could see long family-style tables set up beneath simple strings of lights. Beyond was the large prep tent, billowing flavorful smoke and promises of a great meal.

A large ice-filled canoe set on sawhorses served as the raw bar. Piled high were mounds of huge freshly-peeled shrimp, briny oysters, and triggerfish ceviche served in little Tena Payne pottery cups. Housemade cocktail sauce and tangy mignonette complemented the fresh seafood. I would be remiss if I did not mention the bar for this particular event: a wide-variety of bourbons, whiskys, rum, gin, vodka, and wine were so plentiful. Staffed with a team of eager young attendants, there was never a line and everyone’s glasses stayed full. I found myself partial to the signature libation of the evening: the Gingersnap. Ginger-infused simple syrup mingled with bourbon and a splash of sparkling water and was garnished with a large orange wedge. Very tasty.

Guests relaxed on large bales of hay or bought one-of-a-kind aprons produced by Natalie Chanin’s Alabama Chanin. I consulted the artist in my pick, featuring the Garden & Gun logo and two pigs in a reverse appliqué. Each apron came numbered (only 80 were produced) and hand-dated celebrating the event for which they were created. I think I may actually frame mine.

A whole host of folks made this party come together and before we were escorted to dinner, a few of them took to the microphone. Chris Hastings was first to recognize all of the efforts of his fellow chef friends: James Briscione, Chris Zapalowski, Rob McDaniel, Chris Harrigan, Drew Robinson, James, Boyce, and Joe Wolfson. Southern Foodways Alliance President Angie Mosier spoke to the plight of the fishermen of Bayou La Batre and introduced the short SFA-produced film we’d soon see about them. Garden & Gun executive editor David DiBenedetto thanked the event’s sponsors and promised his wife his jacket. A thoughtful prayer was said and then a raucous gospel choir squired us through the woods to our tables.

White tablecloths, fresh October flowers, warm candlelight and a first course lined each table. Tena Payne platters filled with Bacon-Wrapped Venison Pate, Pork Rillettes, and Pickled Fall Vegetables made for a perfect starter. Next, we enjoyed a Quail and Oyster Gumbo with Country Ham Deviled Eggs. This velvety-smooth rich soup warmed everyone up.

Next we passed each other platters of entrees including: Alabama Free-Range Chicken with Fall Vegetable Panzanella; Homemade Duck Sausage Quesadilla with Mt. Laurel Gardens Pumpkin Blossom, Manchego Cheese, and Poblano Mole; Hickory-Smoked Riverview Farms Whole Hog with Stone Ground Grits and Carolina Hog Sauce; Whole Roasted Gulf Snapper with New Market Watercress, Citrus, and Stone Fruits, and Muscadine Vinaigrette; and White Oak Plantation Braised Beef Cheeks with Heirloom Cauliflower and Wild Mushrooms.

By now, everyone was stuffed but still managed to make room for one last course. Dessert was Chef Hastings’ own Persimmon Bread Pudding with Pappy Van Winkle Hard Sauce from Petals from the Past and Hot Mulled Apple Cider. As we licked our forks clean, those same Range Rovers arrived to take us back to our cars. We passed by the chefs’ tent and thanked them all effusively for a very memorable evening.

I confess that I have been looking forward to this night for weeks and I was only disappointed in it's conclusion. I simply did not want the night to end. No detail had been overlooked. No request was denied. It was an amazing and elegant evening -- all for a fabulous cause.

The accompanying photos really do not do it justice so I can’t wait to see what Jason Wallis shot!

The Raw Bar

Triggerfish Ceviche with Spicy Plantain Chips

The Boathouse

Whole Roasted Gulf Snapper

Village Living article, 10/10: Cooler Temperatures, Warmer Meals

2010-10-02T21:08:00.000-05:00

I wrote the following article which appears this month in Village Living. I was asked to develop a few soup recipes, specifically ones that would do well served in bread bowls. I especially love the corn bisque for Thanksgiving.
ENJOY!

"Fall is coming. I swear it is. You may have been dripping sweat at the last Alabama game but I promise, cooler temperatures are just around the corner.

And with cooler temperatures, come requests for warmer foods: foods that comfort, meals that warm you up from the inside out, dishes that underscore the feeling of the season. And no other food does that quite like soup.

Certainly it is easy enough to pop open a can of something and nuke it for a minute or two. But, it is so much better to be able to enjoy something YOU made from scratch. So spend an afternoon making one of the following soups and you will be rewarded. Better yet, double the recipe and surprise a neighbor with a container of your favorite. Who knows? You might just start a new trend!

ROSEMARY CORN BISQUE
Serves 10

Ingredients:
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
1 large yellow onion, chopped (a scant 2 cups)
1/2 cup diced carrot
1/2 cup diced celery
8 cups frozen corn kernels, thawed and drained
1 tablespoon fresh rosemary, chopped
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper (to taste)
6 cups chicken stock
1 cup half-and-half (or whole milk)
1 red bell pepper, chopped

Directions:
1) Melt 3 tablespoons butter in a large heavy pot over medium-high heat. Add onions, carrot and celery and sauté 3 minutes.
2) Add 6 cups corn, rosemary and cayenne and sauté 2 minutes. Add stock and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer uncovered until vegetables are tender and liquid is slightly reduced, about 30 minutes. Let the mixture cool slightly before proceeding to the next step.
3) Working in batches, purée the soup in a blender. Return the soup to the pot and add the half-and-half and remaining 2 cups of corn. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
4) Melt remaining 1 tablespoon butter in a large heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add bell pepper and sauté until almost tender, about 5 minutes. Stir bell pepper into soup or add to the top of each serving as a pretty garnish.

Note: This soup is terrific as a first course for Thanksgiving dinner. You can easily make this a few weeks in advance and freeze it – one less thing to do on turkey day!

This soup also looks so pretty when served in a hollowed-out bread bowl. A rustic rosemary sourdough or French boule would work really well for this.

ROASTED BUTTERNUT SQUASH SOUP
Serves 4

Ingredients:
1 2-pound butternut squash, halved lengthwise, seeded
2 cups chicken stock, warmed
freshly grated nutmeg, to taste
1 cup milk (preferably 1%)
garnish: sour cream, toasted pumpkin seeds (pepitas)

Directions:
1) Preheat oven to 400°F.
2) Line a rimmed baking pan with foil and lightly coat with vegetable spray.
3) Place squash cut side down in the pan and roast until tender, about 45 minutes. Remove from oven and let cool slightly.
4) Use a large spoon to scrape the squash into the bowl of a food processor; discard peel. Add 1 cup chicken stock and puree until smooth. Transfer puree to a large heavy stockpot. Add remaining stock, nutmeg and milk. Stir soup over medium heat until heated through. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Garnish each serving with a tablespoon of sour cream and a few pepitas.

Note: This is another soup that freezes well. Be sure to label your containers with not just the name of the soup but reheating and garnishing directions as well.

ITALIAN SAUSAGE SOUP WITH WHITE BEANS AND KALE
Serves 6

Ingredients:
3 tablespoons olive oil
6 Italian sausages, casings removed
1 cup chopped onion
1 tablespoon minced garlic
½ teaspoon dried crushed red pepper
1 large bunch of kale, de-ribbed and chopped (may substitute escarole)
½ cup dry white wine
2 15-ounce cans Great Northern beans, rinsed and drained
4 cups chicken stock
1 2” piece of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese rind (see note)

Directions:
1) Heat oil in a large heavy pot over medium-high heat. Working in batches, sauté sausage until cooked through, breaking up with the back of a spoon, about 6 minutes per batch. (Alternatively, you may slice the sausages to keep the pieces larger for real sausage lovers.) Using a slotted spoon, transfer sausage to a paper-towel lined plate; leave drippings in the pot.
2) Reduce heat to medium; add onion to pot and sauté until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and crushed red pepper. Stir to combine.
3) Add kale and sauté until wilted, about 2 minutes. Add wine, stir to combine and cook 2 minutes more.
4) Add beans, stock, sausage and cheese rind. Simmer for 20 minutes to develop flavors. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Note: Generations of Italians have known about the fabulous taste found in the rinds of Parmigiano-Reggiano wheels of cheese. Adding a large piece during the simmering process imparts a depth of flavor that is incomparable. Just remember to remove the rind when serving the soup. These rinds are readily available in the Specialty department of Whole Foods Market and are very reasonably priced. Want to skip this step? No problem. Just add a generous tablespoon of freshly grated cheese to everyone’s bowl when serving.

Dark leafy greens are so good for you. However, they can be a little bitter and tough if not cooked adequately. Before chopping the kale (or escarole), remove the center part of each leaf (the rib). This step will ensure that your greens are nice and tender and cook uniformly.

This soup makes for great leftovers. Extend the life of your meal by adding a handful of cooked pasta and a can of diced tomatoes to the soup."

GARDEN & GUN HOLDS A HARVEST FEAST

2010-09-27T19:35:00.000-05:00

From this past week's Birmingham Weekly:

"Posted on September 23, 2010

A feast with a mission

GARDEN & GUN HOLDS A HARVEST FEAST

By Christiana D. Roussel

More than one Garden & Gun magazine cover shot has been known to make grown men swoon. A black-and-white portrait of a loyal German short-hair pointer or a close-up of an antique shotgun can make almost anyone start to dream about a covey of quail. But flip past those beauty shots and you will find page after page of engaging articles, written by our fellow Southern brethren. You’ll find pieces that evoke the history of this place by authors who know how to wax nostalgic about the purpose of our culture: John T. Edge, Roy Blount Jr., Marshall Chapman, and Rick Bragg to name a few.

The term “new South” has been bandied about forever. Long before the end of the Civil War, Southerners have been passionate about their way of life, celebrating it, preserving it, sharing it. After all, sharing is just “good manners”. And while the name of the publication may throw some people off, this is a magazine with a mission: “Garden & Gun is a Southern lifestyle magazine that’s all about the magic of the New South—the sporting culture, the food, the music, the arts, the literature, the people, and the ideas. It espouses a strong conservation ethic that grows out of its connection to the land, and it reveals the beauty of the South as no magazine ever has.”

And while this magazine is only in its infancy, compared to other venerable Southern titles, it has garnered legions of fans. Where else can you learn that the son of famed Texan troubadour Townes Van Zandt is a true craftsman who makes custom wooden fishing skiffs? Or how it took Oxford, Mississippi chef John Currence thirty hours (and a whole lot of whiskey) to smoke a whole hog ? And who among us can find fault with a national publication that devotes TEN pages of thick elegant creamy paper to our own fair city?

It almost goes without saying that when a magazine of this caliber hosts an event, it will be many things: traditional, first-class, teeming with good food and drink and FUN. The Harvest Feast, A Southern Supper to Benefit the Alabama Fishing Community of Bayou La Batre promises nothing less. Taking place Sunday, October 3 rd at privately-owned Lake Tadpole in Trussville, the event will feature signature cocktails, a seafood raw bar, a family-style dinner using the best local and seasonal fare, live music and lawn games. Tickets will only be available to Garden & Gun Club members. But that’s as simple as joining on-line (www.gardenandgunclub.com) or calling (843) 737-9179. Memberships begin at just $35 and include a host of benefits, not the least of which is an annual subscription to the magazine.

Chris & Idie Hastings of Hot & Hot Fish Club have worked tirelessly to put together this fundraiser—all proceeds will directly benefit the fishermen of Bayou La Batre in Mobile County, the seafood capital of Alabama and a community severely affected by the Gulf oil spill. Chef Chris notes, “My friend Lee Cary (of Snapper Grabbers fame), who I call ‘Lee Fish’, has kept me abreast of the post-oil spill realities of these fishermen. Our community is pretty Gulf-centric in our seafood consumption so their welfare means a lot.”

Other notable Alabama chefs participating in this first annual event include Rob McDaniel of SpringHouse at Lake Martin, Chris Harrigan of Stones Throw Bar & Grill in Mt. Laurel, Chris Zapalowski of Homewood Gourmet, Drew Robinson of Jim and Nick’s BBQ, Jimmy Boyce of Huntsville’s Cotton Row and Jon Sanchez from Ham and High in Montgomery.

Chef James Briscione, participating as the Expatriate Southern Chef, got involved when Chef Hastings ran into him at a recent Southern Foodways Alliance event in New York City. He adds “James used to work at Highlands Bar & Grill under Frank (Stitt), so he’s a real Alabama guy.

He is eager to help.” Currently, Chef Briscione is a chef instructor at the Institute of Culinary Education in New York.

A few of the Feast’s proposed menu items include: Venison Pate and Pickled Fall Vegetables; Homemade Duck Sausage Quesadilla with Mt. Laurel Gardens Pumpkin Blossom, Huitlacoche Cheese and Poblano Mole; Quail and Oyster Gumbo with Deviled Eggs.

The $150 ticket price includes all of the above as well as music by The Greta Gaines band, a short film by Southern Foodways Alliance on Bayou La Batre’s fishing community, and an appearance by noted fashion designer and icon Natalie Chanin of Alabama Chanin.

“I’ve been a Garden & Gun subscriber for years. This is a magazine that highlights some really great things about the South,” Natalie remarked. When she heard Garden & Gun was hosting the event and that Chris & Idie Hastings were coordinating the food, she knew she had to contribute. The fact that it was all to benefit a great cause was just icing on the cake.

The logo for the event, a white fish on a deep ocean blue background, features Natalie’s trademark stitchery. Her group has produced one-of-akind aprons to be sold at the Feast as an additional fundraiser. Each one is unique and features her inimitable stencils, embroidery and reverse appliqués. “I’m also a member of Southern Foodways Alliance. SFA has really inspired my work.” The aprons’ artwork include various Southern staples such as fish and ears of corn which makes this very apparent. Natalie recently dined at Hot & Hot Fish Club where she said she could “taste Alabama in every dish. In the Chilton County peach cocktail and the signature tomato salad with field peas, I could taste ‘local.’ I think Hot & Hot (Fish Club) is one of the best restaurants in the South.”

By now, you can probably already envision yourself at the Harvest Feast, sleeves rolled up and elbow deep in great seafood. As the sun starts to set, you can almost hear the band start to tune up and you’re ready for one of those signature cocktails. But listen, there are only 160 tickets available for this unique event, and they are selling like the proverbial hotcakes. Visit www.gardenandgun.com/harvestfeast to purchase your tickets and help support the fisherman of Bayou La Batre.

Christiana Roussel lives in Crestline and is a lover of all things food-related. You can follow her culinary musings on line at ChristianasKitchen.blogspot.com or on Facebook or Twitter."

Nobu Sauce

2010-09-26T20:39:00.000-05:00

Many eons ago, my husband and I lived in Houston. We were young and carefree, without children yet and living in the middle of the fourth-largest city in America. Houston, Texas is the best food city I have ever lived in: any cuisine, in any price range is available at any time of day or night.

In an entry level job and not flush with cash, I had to be creative in the kitchen. I loved trying new things in restaurants and then recreating them at home. My husband jokes that the only way he ever got me to move to Houston at all was the insane ceviche we would eat at Pico’s Mex-Mex. I’ll admit: it played a role.

I have always loved perusing local grocery stores, no matter what city I am in. Rice Epicurean is Houston’s own high-end grocery chain. It was not uncommon to see customers arrive in chauffeur-driven Rolls-Royces. Seriously high-end.

It was here that I stumbled upon an amazing sauce produced by Chef Nobu Matsuhisa. In his restaurants, he combines traditional Japanese and Peruvian ingredients in a completely novel way. Rice Epicurean sold several Nobu sauces but I fell in love with his Spicy Lemon Sauce. Salty soy mixed with acidic lemon and seemed to spark on the tongue.

The sauce was the perfect salad dressing, marinade for chicken or fish, or finishing sauce for seared shrimp. Its flavor was incomparable. And expensive. At close to ten dollars a bottle, this was a splurge for newlyweds renting a corner of a Melrose-Place-style duplex in town. Before long, Nobu and I had to part ways.

Years later, I remained obsessed with that zing and tried to emulate it but the exact taste eluded me. I discovered bottles on Amazon but their status was always “Out of Stock.” And then, one day, I just Googled it. Seems I wasn’t the only one crazy about that stuff. Another devoted fan had tracked down the specs and shared with the world.

Herewith, Nobu’s Spicy Lemon Sauce:

In a medium glass bowl, blend together:
1/4 cup lemon juice
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 large garlic clove, grated
1/4 teaspoon chili garlic sauce (or more, to taste)
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
pinch of fresh ground black pepper

Whisk vigorously while drizzling in:
6 tablespoons grapeseed oil

That’s it!

Tonight I used about ¼ cup of the Nobu sauce to marinate a large flounder fillet. I placed the fillet in a large Pyrex baking dish and let it marinate for 7 - 10 minutes while the oven warmed to 400ºF. Then, I baked the fillet for 10 minutes, broiling just at the end for color. I served the fillet over brown rice with sugar snap peas. Additional Nobu sauce was served alongside.

BON APPETIT!

Baked flounder over brown rice with sugar snap peas and Nobu's Spicy Lemon Sauce

Gadget Obsessed - The Rice Cooker

2010-09-23T13:10:00.000-05:00

I blame my mother-in-law. She's the reason I had to buy the rice cooker. At least, that's the story I'm telling. She and my father-in-law stopped over for the night, on their way from New Orleans to Cashiers, North Carolina recently.

I understand that rice is sacred in the Crescent City. It's right up there with the Holy Trinity: chopped celery, bell pepper and onions to you and me. If you can't make good rice, people might talk bad about your mama. But I always thought I had this rice thing down pat: add one cup of rice to two cups of boiling water (or chicken stock), cover, reduce heat and simmer for 25 minutes. Apparently not.

As I lovingly plated up the duck confit and rice, I swelled with pride. After all, this was Puddin & Roach's first visit to our newly remodeled home. I wanted everything to be perfect. I'd fluffed their room, adding a vase of fresh flowers, stocked the mini-fridge with her favorite Diet Coke, and prepared a meal I was sure would spoil them. But, I guess it was the rice that spoiled it for Puddin.

She told me after dinner, and the children were out of earshot, that I may be nice and all, but I could not make rice to save my life. Ouch. She's lucky I like her husband because I might not have let them stay the night with talk like that. I didn't even get a good "Bless your heart!" out of the deal.

I lay in bed that night, stewing about that comment and I made several resolutions, some of which are not fit to print. And the next morning, I called my bossy New Orleans friend, Suzette, and asked about her rice cooker. She gave me a quick run down of features and benefits to look for when purchasing one: 1) it should accommodate a large amount of rice. Too many rice cookers on the market are just too small to do anything worthwhile. 2) having a white rice AND brown rice cooking feature is important. These grains cook at different rates. 3) a "keep warm" feature is perfect for when the rice is finished before the entree.
I found the Aroma 3-Quart or 4-20 Cups Rice Cooker & Food Steamer with Sensor Logic Technology at Costco for under $40.

The box says I can cook a whole meal in there: rice, meat, veggies, etc. That's great. Right now, all I'm concerned about is perfect rice. And boy does it deliver! I am in love with this thing. I can even program it to start making the rice hours in advance. I add rice and stock, close the lid, punch a few buttons and I'm guaranteed fluffy grains every time.
I'm not sure when my mother-in-law will be back this way. But when she gets here, she'll have one less thing to complain about.

Espresso Chocolate Chip Cookies

2010-09-15T20:40:00.000-05:00

My husband will tell you that I am a great cook. He'll also tell you that I have a really annoying tendency to sometimes "fussy up" something so simple. You know, if black-eyed peas cooked with a good flavorful ham hock are tasty, wouldn't they be even better with, say, cumin? Uh, no. All cooks have experiments that fail. But we also have some that work out REALLY well.

Like today. I have a fantastic chocolate chip cookie recipe that everyone loves (who doesn't have one of those?) But I found myself wanting this batch to "be more." The "fussy up" factor. Almost before I knew it, I'd added a large tablespoon of instant espresso powder to the batter and the deed was done.

And wouldn't you know it? It worked. Instant espresso powder (not coffee grounds) adds a little boldness here and there. It transforms the rest of the ingredients; from chocolate chip cookies to CHOCOLATE CHIP cookies. I can't explain it. I just know that this is one experiment that worked.

Now if I could just figure out how to pass off that cinnamon-sugar coated chicken breast dish... just kidding.

Espresso Chocolate Chip Cookies
Makes 36 to 72 cookies, depending on size.

Ingredients:
2 sticks unsalted butter, softened
1 cup packed dark brown sugar
1/2 cup granulated sugar
2 large eggs
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
3/4 teaspoon baking soda
1 large tablespoon instant espresso powder (see photo)
2 11- to 12-ounce bags good-quality chocolate chips or chunks (preferably Ghiradelli)

Directions:
1) Place the butter in the bowl of a stand mixer and cream at high speed until fluffy. Add the sugars and beat until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes, scraping down sides of bowl once or twice. Beat in eggs, one at a time, until completely mixed. Add vanilla extract and mix again.
2) In a separate bowl, mix together flour, salt, baking soda and espresso powder. Add to the butter mixture at low speed until just combined. Scrape down bowl and add chocolate chips. Mix again.
3) This step is important: refrigerate batter until cold, preferably overnight. This gives the flour time to absorb the liquid in the batter. To be honest, I used to know why this worked, now I just know that it works so I do it. And I know that when I DON'T do it, I get little cookie puddles, not cookies.
4) Preheat oven to 350 F degrees and line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a Silpat. Drop heaping spoonfuls of batter 2" apart on the lined baking sheet and bake until golden brown around edges and soft, about 9 - 11 minutes. Let stand on the cookie sheet for five minutes before transferring to a wire rack to cool.

Note: Not a coffee lover? Just leave the espresso powder out; you'll still have lovely cookies, oozing with chocolate.

looks like its time to buy more espresso powder

Baked Flounder (what to do with leftover rice)

2010-09-07T20:45:00.000-05:00

One of my kitchen skills that I take great pride in is my ability to estimate. I can take a countertop full of leftovers and find the perfect container to house them in. Sauces? No problem. Leftovers for lunch tomorrow? Got it.

But I am seriously deficient in estimating the correct amount of pasta or rice I'll need with a meal. Its a good thing those are pretty inexpensive staples because I always overproduce them. Leftover pasta gets thrown out but I'll hold onto rice since its so easy to incorporate into another dish.

Tonight I paired leftover rice with a lovely flounder recipe I found on http://www.epicurious.com/. I melted a little butter in a skillet and added the rice to reheat. Next, I tossed in some fresh basil that I'd cut in a chiffonade. (See photos of this technique since it is so easy but looks fancy.)

1) Select basil leaves of similar size

3) Roll Leaves like a Cigar

2) Stack Leaves

4) Thinly slice with a very sharp knife

5) Basil Chiffonade

6) Leftover rice with basil chiffonade

The original flounder recipe called for fennel which I did not have on hand but it does pair so nicely with fish. During the last few minutes of the fish's cooking time, I made the spinach. After sauteeing a pressed garlic clove in a little olive oil, I added fresh spinach and lemon juice to a pan, popped the lid on and turned down the heat. This is my favorite way to steam spinach.

This was an easy weeknight dinner but you could certainly serve it to company as well. ENJOY!

Baked Flounder with Tomato Caper Sauce

Serves 4

Ingredients:

For sauce

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 tablespoon butter

1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped

1 garlic clove, thinly sliced

1 (14 1/2-oz) can diced tomatoes including juice

1/4 cup dry white wine

2 tablespoons capers, rinsed and drained

salt and pepper to taste

For flounder

1/2 cup fine dry bread crumbs

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

salt and pepper to taste

1.5 pounds skinless flounder fillet

Directions:

1) Preheat oven to 400°F.

2) Make sauce: Heat oil and butter in a 12-inch heavy skillet over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking, then sauté onion, stirring, until golden, about 8 minutes. Add garlic and sauté, stirring, 30 seconds. Add tomatoes and wine and simmer briskly until liquid is reduced by one third, about 5 minutes. Stir in capers, salt, and pepper, then transfer to a 9" x 13" Pyrex dish or other wide shallow baking dish.

3) Prepare flounder: Place flounder on top of tomato mixture. Stir together bread crumbs, butter, salt, and pepper with a fork until combined. Gently press bread crumbs onto flounder.

4) Bake in middle of oven until fish is just cooked through, 20 to 25 minutes.

See original recipe: http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/printerfriendly/Baked-Flounder-with-Tomato-Caper-Sauce-105592#ixzz0ytXDI07b

BACON AND BLUE CHEESE MEATLOAF

2010-09-03T11:24:00.000-05:00

Even if you've never seen the movie Food, Inc. I bet you can understand how grass-fed beef just tastes better. I am firm believer that meat from cows raised eating grass simply tastes better. There are a million reasons why it MATTERS where your food comes from, and I'm not just talking about the grocery store. Well, actually, today I am.

Grass-fed beef is on sale, today only, at Whole Foods Market for $3.99/pound. Go. Now. Stock up. And once you have, you'll want to know what to DO with all that lovely beef. One of my favorites is Marcella Hazan's recipe for Pasta Bolognese, which can be found in her book "Essentials of Italian Cooking". You will be amazed at how delicious those simple ingredients can be when you just let them simmer together for a while. Its a sauce that freezes amazingly well too -- perfect for those cooler days which can't be too far away.

Another great way to use ground beef? Meatloaf. This is not that vague gray form you remember from the cafeteria. Topped with pancetta and laced with blue cheese, this meatloaf is teeming with flavor. Just make sure you have plenty of good Kaiser rolls on hand too because there is almost nothing better than a cold meatloaf sandwich the next day.

BACON AND BLUE CHEESE MEATLOAF
Serves 6, plus leftovers

Ingredients:
8 slices pancetta, divided (or bacon if pancetta is not available)
½ cup finely chopped large yellow onion
1 garlic clove, minced
2 pounds ground beef, preferably grass-fed chuck
6 ounces blue cheese, crumbled
2 eggs
¼ cup flat-leaf parsley, chopped
1 tablespoon fresh thyme, chopped
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper
2 cups fresh bread crumbs
½ cup purchased steak sauce of your choice (optional)

Directions:
1) Preheat the oven to 350°.
2) In a medium skillet over medium-high heat, cook four slices of pancetta until it almost crisp, about 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from skillet and coarsely chop. Place in a large mixing bowl.
3) In the same pan, using the remaining rendered fat, add the onion and garlic. Saute until translucent, about 5 minutes, over medium heat. Add to the bowl with the bacon.
4) To the mixing bowl, add the ground beef, blue cheese, eggs, parsley and thyme. Use a pair forks to combine; be careful not to overmix. Add the salt, pepper and bread crumbs. Toss to combine.
5) Form the mixture into a loaf and place in a pan. Top with remaining four pancetta slices. (You may opt to freeze the loaf at this point and bake later. Just be sure to really seal the package to keep out all air.) Bake until the loaf is firm and reaches an internal temperature of 160ºF, about 45 minutes.
6) Pour steak sauce over and bake for 5 – 10 minutes more. Remove from oven and let stand 10 minutes before slicing to serve.

Greene Prairie Aquafarm

2010-09-02T12:15:00.001-05:00

Greene Prairie Aquafarm Shrimp

My first article for Birmingham Weekly was published today. While I am excited to have been able to contribute to this very cool, very hip local weekly paper, I am even more honored to have been able to cover the subject. I think Greene Prairie Aquafarm is one of the coolest things going.

Click on the link to read the whole article and find a new recipe for shrimp!

http://bhamweekly.com/birmingham/article-1769-little-shrimp-at-the-prairie.html

Formidable Women

2010-08-30T16:20:00.000-05:00

You know how it goes – you get a few strong women together and the air in the room becomes electrified. And when you get a few strong women together who are passionate about food – well, watch out!

Recently, several such women gathered at the home of Lynn Leishman, publisher of the Birmingham Weekly, for a potluck dinner. Being one herself, Lynn knows a thing or two about the power of strong women. These are “broads” in the best sense of the word; women who can tell a bawdy joke, run their own businesses, challenge the status quo, and do it all while looking very good.

How I ever got invited, I’ll never know.

Maybe it was the promise of my favorite tomato-basil goat cheese tart (see July 19, 2010 post: "A Bowl Full of Happy") or just that I offered to bring wine. I elbowed my way in and found a seat at the table.

Joining me there were Lynn, her longtime BFF Jane Perry; Birmingham Bake & Cook Company’s Susan Green; and Maureen McGrath CEO of MBC, an international licensing agent and retail consultant. Lynn’s husband Chuck managed to sneak in a nosh too. Not one of the invitees had a clue what the others were bringing to this pot luck but, like a great jazz group, every dish hit just the right note and the whole evening just hummed.

Jane and Lynn collaborated on a fabulous grilled shrimp salad. Served chilled over a bed of fresh greens, its spiciness was counterbalanced by chunks of sweet ripe summer melons. Maureen brought a platter of large figs, topped with caramelized walnuts, goat cheese and an earthy honey.

As hard as it was to pick a favorite, Susan’s bruschetta won everyone’s vote, hands down. Fresh airy ciabatta slices had been drizzled with olive oil and lightly toasted. A light schmear of soft goat cheese was put on top, followed by a generous spread of garlicky roasted asparagus pesto. A thin sliver of very fine prosciutto gilded the lily.

Days later I was still dreaming about those little bites of heaven. My mind effortlessly conjured up the rich garlic flavor and I found myself drooling as I described the dish to my husband. Lucky for me, Susan was gracious enough to share her recipe so I could recreate it in my own kitchen.

I know she used fresh asparagus but I remembered having a bag of frozen tips from Whole Foods Market. I defrosted them and patted them dry and proceeded as directed.

Susan’s Roasted Asparagus Pesto (adapted)
Makes roughly one cup

Ingredients:
1 pound asparagus, cut into 2” pieces
2 tablespoons fresh lemon zest
2 tablespoons olive oil
salt and fresh pepper, to taste
2 cloves garlic, peeled
¼ cup pine nuts
¼ cup olive oil
½ cup Parmesan cheese, freshly shredded
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

accompaniments: goat cheese, Boursin, prosciutto

Directions:
1) Preheat oven to 400ºF.
2) Line a rimmed cookie sheet with foil. Layer asparagus cuts in a single layer. Drizzle with olive oil, salt and pepper, and lemon zest. Roast just until tender, about 5 – 7 minutes. (Roasting times will vary depending upon the size of the stalks used.)
3) Remove asparagus from oven let cool slightly. Place asparagus in the bowl of a food processor; add garlic and pine nuts. Pulse to combine. With the motor running, add the olive oil in a drizzle. Scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add Parmesan cheese and lemon juice; pulse again to combine. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

To assemble: lightly brush slices of ciabatta or baguette with olive oil. Toast slightly. Spread a tablespoon of goat cheese or Boursin onto each piece of bread. Spread two tablespoons asparagus pesto on top. Garnish with a slice of Italian prosciutto.

Leftover pesto can be refrigerated for a day or frozen for a month. (Freeze it!)
Try tossing warm pasta with a few tablespoons of pesto for a quick vegetarian dinner. Or, use the pesto as a base for a quick weeknight pizza.

Tangy Salmon with Herbed Rice and Zucchini Ribbons

2010-08-27T13:55:00.002-05:00

When I am good, when I plan and take care of the largesse that comes into my kitchen, I reap the benefits for months.

A few weeks ago, my sweet husband brought home half of a gorgeous salmon from his trip to Pike’s Place Market in Seattle. I carefully divided the seafood cache into several family-sized portions, wrapped them with love in freezer paper and stored them in giant zip-top bags in the deep-freeze. My TLC paid off today as I plucked a nice large fillet for tonight’s dinner: Tangy Salmon.

Those gifts from the Freezer God can just keep on coming…

Tangy Salmon

Ingredients:

1 Granny Smith apple, peeled and grated

1/3 cup mayonnaise

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon Old Bay seasoning

pepper, to taste

1 pound salmon fillet

Directions:

1) Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

2) Mix together the first six ingredients. Season to taste.

3) Place the salmon on a lightly oiled rimmed baking sheet (or one lined with Reynolds non-stick aluminum foil) and cover with the apple mixture.

4) Bake until done, about 15 to 20 minutes, depending on the thickness of the salmon. Topping will be golden brown when done.

Pairs nicely with Carolina Gold rice, tossed with fresh chives and chopped cilantro or the herbs of your choice. For the vegetable, I quickly sauteed some zucchini ribbons.

Zucchini Ribbons

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Japanese Vegetable Slicer

click here for a similar tool from Sur La Table: http://www.surlatable.com/product/kuhn+rikon+julienne+peeler.do?keyword=peeler&sortby=ourPicks

International Travel – on a plate (and a nod to the writings of John T. Edge)

2010-08-06T21:03:00.000-05:00

John T. Edge could write about paint drying and I would read every word, soaking up the nuances of his prose. That he writes about food makes him almost a deity in my house. I love to read anything he writes.

He is the director of Southern Foodways Alliance, which works to “document, study, and celebrate the diverse food cultures of the changing American South.” He has written half a dozen books on the subject of Southern food alone; his descriptions of donuts, fried chicken and small town barbecue joints have been known to inspire many a road trip.

John T. also writes the “United Tastes” series for the New York Times, giving testament to the fact that not all Yankees are ignorant. If those editors are wise enough to get him to tackle the merits of food trucks then, by gum maybe they aren’t all that bad.

His recent article entitled, “The Tortilla Takes a Road Trip to Korea” did not disappoint. In this piece, John T. cites various examples of how Korean cuisine has adopted a key Mexican staple, the tortilla. Filling this familiar vehicle with traditional Korean flavorings such as gochujang-marinated chicken and fresh cilantro crosses a myriad of borders while remaining eminently accessible to the American palate.

Tonight I made his recipe for the Korean Chicken Tacos and paired them with roasted red corn that had been seasoned with chile and lime. The flavors fell together and every bite gave off a little zing. My husband added a little kimchi to his tacos while I omitted the seasoned cabbage from six-year-old Jack’s plate.

The corn was parboiled then finished on the grill, slathered in a homemade chile lime butter and wrapped in foil.

The chicken marinade contains sugar which lends a nice caramel crust to the meat.

I used a pre-shredded cabbage mix to expedite things. I also opted to add a little yellow bell pepper to the slaw.

All of the ingredients including the chicken, red corn and Korean red pepper paste (gochujang) were found at Whole Foods Market. The whole meal cost under $20. Now that’s international travel on a budget!

Click on http://www.nytimes.com/2010/07/28/dining/28united.html?_r=1&scp=3&sq=korean%20chicken%20tacos&st=cse for a link to the original article, including the taco recipe.

See also: http://www.johntedge.com/ and http://www.southernfoodways.com/ for more great info.

From a recent Southern Foodways Alliance event held at Jones Valley Urban Farm in downtown Birmingham, Alabama.

School Year's Resolutions

2010-08-05T15:56:00.000-05:00

(The following is a copy of an article that appears in the current (August) issue of Village Living.)

I absolutely adore Autumn. This time of year is like my New Year’s. Fall is a time to reinvent yourself: new clothes, new classes at school, new schedules. I’d even bet there are almost as many resolutions made at this time of year as in January.

“I vow to make all A’s this year!”
“I’m going to start training for the Mercedes Marathon when the kids are back in school!”
“We’re going to eat dinner as a family, five nights a week!”
“I’m going to pack the kids’ lunches every day!”

By October, just like in March, most of those promises have fallen by the wayside.

But, what if you could keep just ONE of those promises? What if you could set yourself up for success and truly improve the way your family eats? How awesome would the payback be?

Going to school and learning is basically the sole job your children have. Experts will tell you that a diet containing more protein and fewer carbohydrates will keep your kids focused longer.

We’re all pressed for time so most of these suggestions for Healthy Breakfasts, Lunch and Snacks are quick as well as delicious.

Breakfast

• Think outside the box. Everyone loves breakfast for dinner, but what if you made lunch for breakfast? A grilled ham-and-cheese on whole-grain bread or a peanut-butter and jelly sandwich are fast portable choices that offer good sources of fiber and protein. Try using a natural peanut butter for an even healthier choice. The bulk section of Whole Foods Market has peanut and almond grinding machines you can use to make your own nut butters. Check out the honey-roasted peanut butter.

• Smoothies – Doesn’t everyone love a drink that comes from a blender? You may have some summer fruits put up in the freezer. If not, there are tons of great frozen fruit packages at Whole Foods Market or Costco. These are a very affordable way to get more fruit into your diet. Add a large scoop of plain yogurt and a splash of orange juice and you have a meal in a glass. And if you don’t finish it all, pour the remainder into popsicle molds for a quick afternoon snack.

• Think inside the box. Cereal is always fast and easy. And it just makes sense to offer your kids cereal that’s not loaded with high-fructose corn syrup and the like. There are so many choices out there now that offer great taste and good fiber, such as Puffins or any of the Kashi cereals. If you can throw a couple pieces of fresh fruit on top, even better.

• When all else fails, drink a glass of 1% milk. Some people just aren’t breakfast eaters. My daughter eats a ton at dinner but is never hungry at breakfast. Some days, a glass of milk is the only thing we can agree on.

Lunch

I am passionate about getting better food in our kids – in all kids. It doesn’t matter if you call it Food Snobbery or a Food Revolution. One look at school lunch menus will tell you one thing: we can do better. When I asked my kindergarten son last year what’s in a Crispito, he replied “Oh mom, they’re awesome! They’ve got meat paste and orange sauce!” All I could do was slap my forehead and wonder where I went wrong.

Actually, that’s not all I could do.

I can try to reform the school lunch program (a work in progress and a topic for another time!) The other thing I can do is to ensure that my kids take food to school that I want them to eat. Here are some tips:

* Invest in some attractive durable lunch containers that your kids will enjoy taking to school. The Container Store (www.containerstore.com) offers tons of options that are cute AND BPA-free. To keep it organized and cool, look into the new reusable ice cubes and ice mats for sale at places like World Market and Target. Don’t forget a drink container for milk or ice water.

* Food on a stick. When you can’t make one more sandwich, try making savory skewers filled with cubes of cheese, chunks of turkey and cherry tomatoes. Or how about rolled up slices of salami and cheese that can be dunked in fresh tomato sauce? Or fresh fruit kabobs with a naturally sweetened yogurt dip? We’ve all seen enough pre-packaged lunch products to know how much kids love to play with their food and dunk it. Just make it yourself, with real ingredients you can pronounce.

* Of course, the old stand-by for today’s lunch is last night’s dinner. Leftovers can still be well-received if you start with things they like: rotisserie chicken and pesto pasta with bell peppers; chunks of grilled lamb and potatoes; strips of flank steak rolled in a whole wheat tortilla with salsa on the side.

Snack-time

So, you overslept and didn’t pack lunch this morning. Or, your 1st grader just wasn’t ready to tackle tabbouleh today. Whatever the reason, kids come home from school starving. We call this dinner #1 at our house. Dinner #2 doesn’t happen until Dad gets home so we need something to tide us over. I keep a few lower shelves in the pantry stocked with kid-friendly snacks (same in the refrigerator, where they have a drawer.) I stock what I want them to eat and put it in easy reach. There are some great kid-friendly protein bars and snack packs out there. Just read the labels and know what you’re feeding your kids. Whole Foods Market offers a fabulous variety of snacks kids love, that come without artificial colors or sweeteners.

Some of our other favorite snacks include:

• Edamame. Our freezer is packed with bags of these soy beans that can be cooked at a moment’s notice. Simply bring a pot of water to a boil and throw them in for about five minutes. Drain and rinse with cold water and sprinkle with a little sea salt. Kids love to pop open the shells and eat the edamame beans like popcorn.

• Chocolate-covered frozen bananas.

• Strawberry-lemonade popsicles. Fill popsicle molds with real lemonade (I also like any of the Santa Cruz Organic lemonades) and add two sliced strawberries. Freeze. Okay, keep reading. 

• Jicama sticks with cinnamon sugar OR a lime-juice dressing. Jicama is a large root vegetable that is very crunchy, like a water chestnut. This large thin-skinned brown vegetable can be found in the produce section of Whole Foods Market. Using a vegetable peeler, remove the skin and slice into large sticks, about the size of your fore-finger. Jicama is pretty neutral in flavor and is a good source of Vitamin C and Potassium. Try it!

Recipes:

Yogurt Dip for Fruit Kabobs
Combine 2 tablespoons fruit preserves with 1 cup plain yogurt. Stir to combine. Store in an air-tight container and refrigerate until ready to eat.

One Easy Dinner with Leftovers for Lunch
GRILLED FLANK STEAK WITH ROSEMARY AND GARLIC
Serves 4, easily doubled for leftovers

Ingredients:
¼ cup olive oil
4 large garlic cloves, chopped
juice of 1 large lime
1 tablespoon chopped fresh herbs of your choice (oregano, basil, cilantro)
1 1½ -pound flank steak

Directions:
1) Whisk oil, garlic, lime juice and herbs in 13 x 9 x 2-inch glass baking dish. Add steak; turn to coat. Cover and refrigerate at least 30 minutes, turning steak occasionally.

2) Prepare barbecue (medium-high heat) or preheat broiler. Remove steak from marinade, letting excess drip off. Season with salt and pepper.

3) Grill or broil steak until cooked to desired doneness, about 4 minutes per side for medium-rare. Transfer steak to platter. Slice thinly on diagonal across grain.

4) Serve with brown rice and grilled vegetables.

Chocolate-Covered Frozen Bananas
Slice a banana into 1-inch thick slices and place on a cookie sheet lined with waxed paper. Insert a toothpick into the center of each and freeze until hard. Using your microwave at 50% power, melt dark chocolate chips. Be careful not to scorch the chocolate. Dip frozen banana slices in chocolate and place back on cookie sheet. Freeze and store in an airtight container.

Tea Cakes

2010-07-25T21:00:00.000-05:00

Much to my father’s dismay and irritation, it took me five years to complete college. He had always promised each of his three children that we would be afforded a generous four years of room, board and tuition. But, leave it to me, the youngest, to push him to finance an extra year.

I spent my first two college years at the University of Richmond which I hated. I had picked the school based upon it’s proximity to a high school sweetheart and was promptly disappointed and lost. Majoring in Spanish, I finagled a year in Spain with Duke University but when Spring arrived, I knew I could not bear to go back to Richmond.

While the good folks at Duke felt I was good enough for their overseas’ program, it seemed I lacked a certain something to pass muster stateside. Foundering, and rapidly losing credits, my parents suggested I finish my less-than-illustrious college career elsewhere. At this point, I just wanted to be done with school and would have probably gone anywhere to just be finished.

And so it was that I became enrolled at Vanderbilt University in Nashville, Tennessee. Somehow, all of the pieces of my life came together and I found myself exactly where I was supposed to be, when I was supposed to be there. Don’t get me wrong: had I never made those earlier missteps, I would not have the life I have today, married to the man I love, living this little slice of heaven.

But what, you may ask, does any of this have to do with FOOD? I’m getting there.

Located within walking distance to campus on West End Avenue is a sandwich shop called Ham ’N Goody’s. Besides the requisite ham sandwiches and assorted soups, they sell the most AMAZING tea cakes. About six inches wide, these almond-scented cakes-cum-cookies are simply mouth-watering, moist and can wreak havoc on a diet. They can be ordered iced or plain, although who would ever opt for “plain” anything if “iced” is available?

After a Parents’ Weekend visit, I was no longer allowed home without bringing a dozen iced teacakes, carefully wrapped in waxed paper. My mother would wrap them again, individually, and freeze them – to be savored later with an afternoon cup of coffee or a Saturday morning breakfast. Thirty seconds in the microwave, and 250 miles away, they did not disappoint.

The following recipe produces tea cakes as close to the original as possible. I know this, not only because memory serves correctly, but I recently learned my neighbor worked at Ham ‘N Goody’s briefly when she was at Vanderbilt too! She’s been known to hide these in her freezer as well.

ENJOY!

Tea Cakes
Makes 18 4-inch cakes

Ingredients:
1 cup butter (two sticks), softened
2 cups sugar
3 large eggs
2 teaspoons almond extract
4 cups all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
¼ teaspoon cream of tartar
½ teaspoon salt

Directions:
1) In the bowl of a stand mixer, beat the butter and sugar. Add eggs one at a time, mixing after each addition. Add almond extract and mix again.
2) In a separate bowl, sift together flour, baking powder, cream of tartar, and salt. In half-cup additions, add these dry ingredients to the batter and mix until thoroughly combined.
3) Turn dough out onto a large sheet of waxed paper and wrap tightly to keep airtight. Try and form into a large log – approximately 8 inches long and 3 inches in diameter. Chill dough completely, overnight if possible.

4) Preheat oven to 350º F.

5) Slice dough into 1/3-inch disks. Space at least two inches apart on a cookie sheet as dough spreads during baking.

6) Bake for 10 – 12 minutes, just until the edges barely turn golden brown. Do not be tempted to leave these in the oven any longer as they will continue to cook once removed from the oven. Let rest on the cookie sheet for about five minutes before transferring to a wire rack (set over a sheet of waxed paper) to completely cool.

7) While the tea cakes bake, make the icing by combining 1 cup sifted powdered sugar with ½ teaspoon almond extract and 2 tablespoons milk. Add more milk to thin as needed.

8) Drizzle with icing. Let icing glaze up before storing or serving.

The two cakes on the left have a thicker icing than those on the right.

A Bowl Full of Happy

2010-07-19T16:24:00.000-05:00

Last Saturday morning, I made my way down to Pepper Place in Birmingham to stock up on all of the summer’s produce that hasn’t appeared in my own garden. Arriving after 8:30, I was sure the place would be picked over and hot but on both accounts, I was surprised. A cool breeze made its way between the farmers’ stalls and through Chris Dupont’s watermelon demo. And wonder of wonders, I had my pick of the best this area’s farmers had to offer.

Even with a countertop full of ripe peaches at home, I felt compelled to buy more. I made sure these cat-head-sized beauties were a scoonch less than ripe so they’d outlast the others.

Next door, a farmer offered herbs of all varieties, ready to be planted. I selected a lovely lime basil to round out my collection (which already includes traditional and Thai basil).

At another stand, I filled a bag with red ripe tomatoes – the kind that make the heart of a summer sandwich. I have plenty of smaller tomatoes growing at home (Cherokee Purple, Black Krim, Yellow Pear…) but I missed planting the good old-fashioned big reds that accompany burgers and sandwiches. I knew I would enjoy a fabulous tomato and mayonnaise sandwich for lunch today.

It was then that I noticed an abundance of the really small tart tomatoes: the tiny orbs that pop in your mouth and epitomize real summer. I had in the back of my mind a recipe from long ago that can really only be made when you have a plethora of these types of tomatoes. This Goat Cheese and Tomato Tart in a Cornmeal Crust has an incredible smooth custard of goat cheese that the tomatoes practically float upon. It is a really pretty appetizer that should be made ahead. And best of all? It tastes even better than it looks.

Now, next year, if I can just remember to plant more of the Sungolds and Black Cherries and Sweet Pea Currants I love so much. We can have a tart like this on more than just one occasion.

GOAT CHEESE AND TOMATO TART IN A CORNMEAL CRUST

Makes about 36 hors d’oeuvres

Crust Ingredients:

1 1/2 sticks (3/4 cup) cold unsalted butter

1 cup all-purpose flour

3/4 cup yellow cornmeal

1 teaspoon salt

3 tablespoons ice water

Custard Ingredients:

1/2 cup packed fresh basil leaves

7 ounces mild soft goat cheese (preferably Belle Chevre), softened

3/4 stick (6 tablespoons) unsalted butter, well softened

1/2 cup sour cream

2 large eggs

3/4 pound vine-ripened cherry tomatoes (preferably red)

Directions:

1) To make the crust: Cut butter into pieces. In a food processor pulse together flour, cornmeal, and salt. Add butter and pulse until mixture resembles coarse meal. Add ice water and pulse until incorporated and mixture just forms a dough. Press dough evenly into bottom and up sides of a 10 1/2- by 7- by 1-inch rectangular tart pan with a removable fluted rim (or a round tart pan) and roll a rolling pin over rim of pan to trim dough flush with rim.

2) Chill crust about 20 minutes, or until firm. While crust is chilling, preheat oven to 375°F.

3) Line the crust with foil and fill with pie weights or raw rice. Bake crust in lower third of oven until edge is set, 10 minutes. Carefully remove foil and weights or rice and bake crust 5 minutes more, or until just dry. Leave oven on and cool crust in pan on a rack (crust may crack slightly). Crust may be made 1 day ahead and kept, loosely covered with plastic wrap, at room temperature.

4) To make the custard: Chop basil. In a bowl whisk together basil and remaining custard ingredients and season with salt and pepper. Pour custard into crust, spreading evenly. Halve tomatoes and arrange, cut sides up, in one layer on custard, pressing lightly into custard. Season tomatoes with salt and pepper and bake tart in lower third of oven until custard is just set, about 25 minutes.

5) Cool tart to warm in pan on rack. Tart may be made 1 day ahead and cooled completely before being chilled, covered, in pan. Reheat tart, uncovered, in a 350°F oven or bring to room temperature before serving. Carefully remove rim from pan. Cut tart into roughly 2-inch pieces and serve warm or at room temperature.

Note: This recipe originally appeared in the September 1998 issue of Gourmet Magazine. It is a real keeper!

Amanda decorated the tart so beautifully!

Little Savannah Farm Table: Belle Chevre Creamery - July 13th, 2010

2010-07-14T16:12:00.001-05:00

When things fall into place, and great friends can get together to celebrate good food, the rest of the world just seems to melt away. Last night was one of those nights.

Clif & Maureen Holt of Little Savannah in Forest Park have been celebrating farmers and the people who produce our food for as long as I can remember. Their Community Farm Table Suppers this summer are a series of events that continue to recognize and pay homage to the men and women who work so hard to make sure we eat well.

Tasia Malakasis of Belle Chevre Creamery in Elkmont, Alabama was honored last night and several of her famous goat cheeses were highlighted in Clif’s menu:

These suppers are lovely. Not only do they bring folks together family-style to enjoy delicious food in a relaxed, convivial environment but they remove the barrier between the producer and the consumer. We can sit at the table and visit with the person responsible for providing that which delights and nourishes us.

Tasia’s seat was at the head of the table, the position of honor. And as Clif and Maureen and their staff brought out platter after platter of epicurean delights, we were regaled with stories of what it’s like to live at a creamery and what brought Tasia to this point in her life. She shared her hopes for Belle Chevre’s continued success and listened to ideas from the guests. The Pimiento Chevre and new breakfast cheeses (Go Fig-ure, Cinnamon Sugar, and Coffee) acquired more fans as well.

In between trips to the kitchen and the bar, Clif and Maureen took turns sitting with us, sharing stories from places they’ve been (the recent 50th Anniversary To Kill a Mockingbird dinner in Monroeville, Alabama) and upcoming cooking events (Iron City Chef). Their obvious passion for enjoying the fruits of the earth AND the kitchen was contagious.

As the evening wound down, guests slowly ambled out into the thick July night, bellies full, smiling unconsciously, and wondering if the next Supper could be anywhere as good as this one…

Last-Minute Summer Get-Together

2010-07-11T10:23:00.000-05:00

Crazy schedules, traveling sports teams, running back and forth to camp and trips to the beach have left our normally close neighborhood scattered. But yesterday, the stars aligned. I looked out my kitchen window and noticed we were all in town. This called for a party. Never mind that it was already four o’clock and threatening rain. Never mind that fifteen hungry people would be here in 90 minutes. We were on!

I did a quick mental inventory of ingredients I had on hand: frozen homemade pesto, fresh peaches from the farmers market, a few very ripe heirloom tomatoes on the counter. Good. A quick trip to the store to pick up chicken breasts, arugula and a spare carton of good vanilla ice cream and we were almost there.

Groceries in hand, I dashed in the door and made a quick marinade of equal parts lemon juice and olive oil, throwing in a good measure of Italian seasoning blend and salt and pepper too. Having purchased some small (read: normal sized) chicken breasts that had already been trimmed meant they needed little fussing before marinating. Larger breasts would have meant trimming and pounding thin to ensure they got any flavor.

I started the grill, put on a pot of water to boil for some pasta and preheated the oven to 350º F for the dessert.

Hmm…appetizers. I had half a small container of delicious handmade blue cheese dressing. I’m pretty good at the loaves and fishes thing but not THAT good, so I poured what I had into a bowl. A quick scan of the label and I added more of those ingredients from my own fridge (blue cheese, sour cream, mayo, red onion, vinegar and parsley) to augment. A quick taste with a stalk of celery had me thinking “not too bad” and I moved on to the salad part of dinner.

I pulled out a large white rectangular platter and scattered the fresh baby arugula leaves on top. I layered on slices of heirloom tomatoes while Amanda sliced fresh basil. At that moment, Kelly walked in with some of my favorite Belle Chevre goat cheese which we crumbled on top. A drizzle of dressing and the salad was complete.

By now, I’d grilled the chicken and cooked the pasta. While the chicken rested, I got Amanda to toss the pasta with several tablespoons defrosted basil pesto. All of our friends had now arrived and had drinks in hand. Kelly is deft with a knife so she started slicing fresh peaches for the cobbler (see 7/9/10 post for Ann Crane’s Easy Peach Cobbler) which was assembled in no time and put in the oven to bake.

Less than two hours later, and dinner was ready. A stack of paper plates and friends who know where the silverware and cups are, meant we were ready to eat. The kids were corralled and spread out in the kitchen. The adults made their plates and retired to the dining room. Yes, paper plates on fancy gold chargers – that’s the way we roll. Real friends know that.

And so it was that two hours after that, we were still at the dining room table, enjoying being back in each other’s company, laughing until we cried and planning the next time we would all be together again.

Menu

Blue-Cheese dip with celery and carrots

Grilled Chicken Breasts (sliced so the kids could easily facilitate)

Pesto Pasta

Arugula and Heirloom Tomato Salad with Belle Chevre goat cheese

Peach Cobbler and Vanilla Ice Cream

Notes:
• We managed to have some leftover pasta and sliced chicken. These are great tossed together. I’ll add some fresh sliced bell peppers and maybe some blanched spring peas and we have perfect picnic fare.
• A couple spoonfuls of cold peach cobbler makes a pretty tasty breakfast. Shhh, don’t tell the kids!

Ann Crane's Easy Peach Cobbler

2010-07-09T21:40:00.000-05:00

Isn’t it funny how some dishes just stick with you? It can be the pink-lady peas your grandmother used to simmer with a ham hock, or the lobster dinner you and your fiancé shared the night you got engaged (and then left the leftovers under the table), or the Veal Piccata your mother made only for company. There are memories associated with food, memories so strong that they can make you smile on the inside just thinking about them.

Ann Crane’s Easy Peach Cobbler is one such dish.

Ann and her husband, Price, are dear friends of my in-laws in New Orleans. Ann is tall and genteel and her easy smile always puts me at ease. She also makes a killer peach cobbler with the simplest of ingredients. I remember her bringing this over to Puddin & Roach’s house just after Ranson and I were married and happened to be in town. It was warm and had a golden-brown crust and the whole thing just oozed summer. I longed to recreate this dessert but baking has never been one of my strong suits.

So imagine my surprise – and delight – when I learned that the lovely latticed crust was nothing more than day-old white bread with the crusts removed. Yes, I thought, I can do that. Ann has many qualities I always wished to emulate; being able to make this dish was just the easiest thing to start with.

Ann Crane's Easy Peach Cobbler
Serves 6

Ingredients:
6 medium peaches (pitted, peeled, and sliced)
5 slices white bread, crusts removed
1 cup sugar
2 tablespoons flour
1 egg
½ cup butter, melted

Directions:
1) Preheat oven to 350º F.
2) Spray an 8" x 8" baking dish with non-stick spray.
3) Spread peach slices evenly in bottom of dish.
4) Cut bread into 1"-wide strips and lay over peaches, lattice-style. Depending on the size of the slices, you may need more or fewer pieces.
5) In a separate bowl, combine the sugar, flour, egg, and melted butter. Pour this mixture over the peaches and bread. Bake for 30 minutes or until golden brown.

Notes:
* This dessert is best made with fresh peaches but, in a bind, you may use frozen. The end result should always be something warm and redolent of all that is delicious about summer.
* Want to gild the lily? Add a large rounded scoop of homemade vanilla ice cream and watch grown men swoon.

Fish Tacos

2010-07-07T18:07:00.000-05:00

Everyone loves tacos.

When I ask my six-year-old son what he wants for dinner, his number one request is tacos. He loves the old-school kind – Old El Paso powdered seasoning, ground beef, yellow corn hard shells. Cloying in their artificiality, I long to get him eating and requesting better food. So, I’m glad that Jack is now getting equally excited about fish tacos.

These are great, not only because they get more fish in your diet, but they are exceptionally flavorful, can be loaded with fresh veggies and are reasonably priced. I like to start with Whole Foods Market’s Whole Catch Mahi Mahi filets. Selling for about $6.99 (three servings to a package), I keep several of these in the freezer. The firm mahi mahi holds up well on the grill and is very flavorful without tasty too “fishy”.

Season the defrosted filets with a little salt and pepper or use a seasoning blend, like Whole Foods’ Tequila Lime Seasoning. Sometimes I’ll squeeze fresh lime or orange juice over and brush with olive oil before grilling.

Assemble the tacos using fresh flour tortillas, a little slaw, some cilantro, a slice of avocado, maybe a slice of mango and some fresh Marina Salsa (see April 3, 2010 post). With this much flavor on the plate, I guarantee you’ll hear “Fish Tacos!” the next time you ask what they want for dinner.

Quick & Tasty Slaw for Tacos

1 package shredded cabbage (with or without shredded carrots)
3 tablespoons chopped cilantro
3 tablespoons Whole Foods Market 365 Organic Chipotle Ranch Dressing
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

Toss all ingredients together to coat; season with salt and pepper as desired.

Sherry Vinegar

2010-06-22T09:21:00.000-05:00

One of these days, I am going to make a list of all of the things I think are essential in a pantry; the stuff you need to have on hand to whip up a meal on a moment’s notice. It gets expensive to always run to the store for ingredients at the last minute so a well-stocked kitchen can be thrifty too.

Sherry vinegar is definitely one of my pantry staples. I keep a lot of vinegars on hand – red wine, white wine, aged balsamic, white balsamic, fig and pear white balsamic, champagne, yuzu – you name it, I probably stock it. But sherry vinegar is one of the most versatile, adding a mild bit of acidity that also brings out the best flavors in a recipe. A good-quality sherry vinegar might be hard to find but it need not be expensive. Whole Foods Market carries a wide variety, in all price ranges.

The following recipe for gazpacho is an excellent example of how sherry vinegar is used to make the rest of the ingredients just sing. I adore soups and this gazpacho is one of my all-time favorites.

ENJOY!

Gazpacho
Serves 8

Ingredients:
3 beefsteak tomatoes (about 1½ pounds), cored and cut into ¼” cubes
2 small red bell peppers (about 1 pound), seeded and cut into ¼” cubes
2 small cucumbers (about 1 pound), skin on one and removed from the other, seeded and cut into ¼” dice
½ small sweet yellow onion (such as Vidalia), minced (about ½ cup)
2 medium garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon salt
1/3 cup sherry vinegar
5 cups good-quality tomato juice
1 teaspoon hot pepper sauce (such as Tabasco), optional

Directions:
1) In a large non-reactive bowl, combine the first seven ingredients. Stir to combine and let sit for 5 minutes.
2) Stir in the tomato juice and hot pepper sauce, if desired. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours. Serve chilled.

Jacques Pepin

2010-06-21T15:56:00.000-05:00

I have been thinking about writing about Jacques Pepin for a very long time, well before I ever thought about doing a blog. And it’s not just because he is a culinary icon. Sure, he cooked with Julia in her kitchen. And had a lovely show where he taught his daughter Claudine to cook well. Of course he can turn simple chicken legs into little poultry pops and fillet a fish in seconds.

But more than all of that, he is imbued with an incredibly positive, downright infectious attitude about life inside and out of the kitchen.

I realized that my knowledge of Jacques Pepin was only surface deep until I read his memoir, The Apprentice: My Life in the Kitchen. I am a big fan of memoirs, especially food memoirs, and this is by far my favorite.

You might already know that Jacques Pepin was Charles de Gaulle’s personal chef, but did you also know he had the opportunity to be John F. Kennedy’s as well? He turned down the offer of being the White House chef in lieu of going to work for Howard Johnson’s. Yes, THAT Howard Johnson’s! Charged with overhauling the chain’s menu, he implemented systems that produced high-quality dishes that could be mass produced in a myriad of locations. This was revolutionary at the time.

Of course he went on to do many other things, but his sense of always working his tail off, coupled with a genuine joie-de-vivre is truly inspiring. The message is simple: work hard at everything you do but don’t forget to enjoy the life you create.

No food memoir seems complete without a few recipes and this one is no exception. In The Apprentice, you’ll find the high-falutin’ ones like Braised Rabbit en Cocotte with Mustard Sauce as well as the more simple like the Reuben Sandwich. But the one that has stayed with me the longest is for a lovely tomato salad. Semi-Dry Tomatoes and Mozzarella Salad transforms the most basic ingredients into something rich, flavorful, and elegant. And given that we’re about to hit the height of tomato season, you can make this dish pretty inexpensively as well.

Just like the man himself, reading this memoir is a real delight.

Semi-Dry Tomatoes and Mozzarella Salad
Serves 4

Ingredients:
1 ½ pounds plum tomatoes (about 6), cut lengthwise into halves
¾ teaspoon salt
10 ounces fresh mozzarella cheese, cut into ½-inch slices
2 tablespoons drained and rinsed capers
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon chopped garlic
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
½ teaspoon grated lemon rind
about 1 cup (loose) basil leaves

Directions:
1) Preheat the oven to 250º F. Line a rimmed cookie sheet with aluminum foil. Arrange tomato halves, cut side up, on the sheet and sprinkle with ½ teaspoon salt. Bake 4 hours.
2) Remove the tomatoes from the oven (they will still be soft), and put them in a serving bowl. Let them cool, then add the mozzarella, capers, remaining ¼ teaspoon salt, pepper, garlic, olive oil and lemon rind and mix to combine.
3) Drop the basil leaves into 2 cups of boiling water, and cook for about 10 seconds. Drain and cool under cold running water. Press the basil between your palms to extrude most of the water, then chop finely. Add to the salad, toss well, and serve.

Adaptation

2010-06-16T08:40:00.000-05:00

Have you ever seen a recipe in a magazine and thought, “Oooh, I’d like to try to make that.” I have a file loaded with dog-eared pages that I intend to review and file and cook from. Okay, so it’s not just a file; it’s a stack of files, a drawer, and a cabinet, and another drawer and …

I am always tearing out pages of things I want to try in the kitchen. Sometimes, I even get around to making them!

I subscribe to several monthly publications and have lots of favorites: Garden & Gun, Traditional Home, Lucky. I also really like Real Simple. (Insert my dad’s voice here “That’s my girl: Real Simple.” Hardy har har.) In any event, one of the reasons I love Real Simple is for their recipes. I am genuinely surprised every month at the innovative breadth of their choices and usually end of tearing out the whole twenty page section. It follows me around in a folder for a month until I decide to make one or every recipe in there.

The current month’s issue just arrived which means I had better finish whatever I’m going to make out of last month’s copy. So, I found the folder and one of the dishes I wanted to try: Creamy Fettuccine with Leeks, Corn, and Arugula.

This happens to be a vegetarian recipe which I have no problem with. I have often said that I could easily be a vegetarian if it weren’t for my love of the baby animals: lamb, veal, etc. So, I decided to adapt the recipe to suit my family’s eating patterns.

Herewith is the recipe as it appeared in Real Simple:

Creamy Fettuccine With Leeks, Corn, and Arugula
Serves 4

Ingredients:
12 ounces fettuccine (3⁄4 box)
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 leeks (white and light green parts), cut into thin half-moons
4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
kosher salt and black pepper
1 cup corn kernels (from 1 to 2 ears, or frozen)
1/2 cup dry white wine
3/4 cup heavy cream
2 cups baby arugula (1 1⁄2 ounces)
1/4 cup grated pecorino (1 ounce)

Directions:
1. Cook the pasta according to the package directions.

2. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the leeks, garlic, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the corn and wine and simmer until the corn is tender, 2 to 3 minutes; stir in the cream.

3. Add the pasta, season with ½ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper, and toss to combine; fold in the arugula. Sprinkle with the pecorino before serving.

And here is how I adapted it for my family:

Creamy Pappardelle with Caramelized Onions, Corn, Arugula and Pancetta
Serves 4

Ingredients:
8-ounces pappardelle (I used Trader Joe’s brand)
1 4-ounce package Applegate Farms Pancetta, chopped
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 small yellow onion, sliced
1 shallot, sliced
1 cup corn kernels (from 1 to 2 ears, or frozen)
1/2 cup dry white wine
3/4 cup heavy cream
2 cups baby arugula (1 1⁄2 ounces)

Directions:
1. Cook the pasta according to the package directions.
2. Meanwhile, heat a large pot over medium-high heat. Add pancetta and brown, about 2 to 3 minutes. Remove to a bowl using a slotted spoon. Add oil and warm through.
3. Add onions and shallot and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the corn and wine and simmer until the corn is tender, 2 to 3 minutes; stir in the cream.
4. Add the pasta and pancetta; fold in the arugula. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

The reason I did not add in the salt and pepper earlier, as is called for in the original recipe is that pancetta is, by its very nature, salty. The same can be said for arugula in that it is very peppery. It is much easier to add these seasonings after you have assembled the major ingredients, so that you don’t overdo them. This lends itself to a more well-balanced rendition. This is how our dish looked at home:

You could always keep the original recipe, as is, and serve it as a side to some herb-rubbed roasted or grilled chicken. There's almost no wrong way to make dinner for your family -- JUST DO IT!

ENJOY!

When the squash starts to come in…

2010-06-15T16:30:00.008-05:00

A friend of mine recently had her first big harvest of yellow squash and offered me some. I was delighted to take a few home, even though I had no clue what I would do with them. As I stood washing them at the kitchen sink, looking out at my terrace, I spied the sage in my potager, going crazy. That pale feathery green just beckoned to me.

I sliced the squash into 1/3-inch slices and tossed them with some chopped sage, a little olive oil, and some salt and pepper. While the grill heated up, I grabbed some Conecuh sausage from the freezer and ran it under cold running water to speed up the defrosting process.

For those of y’all not familiar with Conecuh sausage (www.conecuhsausage.com), I should first apologize. It is some good stuff and if you don’t have the opportunity to try it for yourself, well, that’s just sad. Made in Evergreen, Alabama, Conecuh sausage is made with a unique seasoning blend; it’s great on kebabs with shrimp and peppers or in a spaghetti sauce like the one my friend Peggy makes. I guess the closest thing to it might be a standard Polish sausage but then again, that’s just not fair to those nice folks in Evergreen.

I few years ago, one of my husband’s vendors sent a Conecuh gift box for Christmas. Among the classic links of mild and spicy sausage was a full side of bacon. I think I wept. It was a beautiful thing to see. Tim Morales, the gentleman who sent this prized cache, has a special place in my heart now.

Back to the grill… now that the grill was hot, I added the squash and links of Conecuh. When everything was cooked through, I sliced the links and tossed it all together. Served over a bed of homemade cheese grits, it made for a quick meal we could serve in large shallow bowls.

Had I thought about this meal a little more, I might have added some caramelized onions and grating of fresh Parmesan on top. Then again, some people might just call that fussying up something simple.

ENJOY!

Village Living Article - June 2010

2010-06-11T06:34:00.007-05:00

Recently, I was fortunate enough to have an article and recipes published in a local newspaper: Village Living. If you live in any of the Mountain Brook zip codes, you should have received a copy in your mailbox last week. If not, here is the article and accompanying recipes! Now, I am pretty new to this side of the food world, and would greatly appreciate any feedback you might have.

HAPPY DAY Y'ALL!
_____________________________________________
For the Love of Food

If you and I get to spend any time together at all, you will quickly learn one thing about me: I love food. I love to eat good food. I love to talk about meals I’ve had or I’m going to have. I like to read about food and now I love to write about it as well. The other thing you might quickly learn about me is that I can be pretty darn lazy. So, when I set about creating a great meal, I want to get a lot out of the effort. I believe in cooking many things at once and then using those dishes in several meals. In the following menu, you’ll get one incredible weeknight supper, plus leftovers for several other meals.

Roasted Lamb
Haricots Vert
Rosemary Fingerling Potatoes
Strawberry-Rhubarb Compote

Many people seem to think of lamb only at Easter but a good roast lamb is welcomed any time. Done well, it is tender and savory and full of fabulous flavor. I especially like it when the juices run into my potatoes and up against the green beans. The flavors fall into one another and for a few minutes, everything seems right with the world. Okay, perhaps that’s a little much but did I mention I love food?

Roasted Lamb
Serves 6 -8, with leftovers

Ingredients:
1 5-pound boneless leg of lamb
1 head of garlic, cloves separated and peeled
¼ cup olive oil
2 lemons
a handful of fresh herbs (oregano, basil, parsley)
salt and pepper

Directions:
1) Remove the lamb from its packaging and rinse and dry it. Using a sharp knife, make about 10 or 12 slits all over. Slice 5 or 6 cloves of garlic lengthwise and insert them into the slits. Use kitchen twine to tie the roast up. Keeping the meat together and uniform in thickness ensures that it cooks evenly. Your effort doesn’t have to look pretty or fancy – it just needs to be efficient. At this point, you may wrap the roast in plastic wrap and refrigerate over night or proceed directly to the next step.
2) Make a lemon-herb paste for the lamb. Start by zesting the lemons using a fine grater or a designated zesting tool. Next, slice the lemons and squeeze out the juice; save some of the pulp as well, if possible. Mince the herbs of your choice until you have about ¼ to 1/3 cup; mince the remaining cloves of garlic. Combine the zest, juice, pulp, herbs and garlic in a glass bowl. Using the back of a fork, mash the ingredients together to make a paste. Drizzle in the olive oil and continue to mix until everything is thoroughly combined. Add salt and pepper to taste. Note: This is more easily done in the bowl of a mini-food processor (remember, I told you I was lazy!)
3) Slather the roast with this savory paste and let it rest while you preheat the oven to 350º F. Place the lamb on a lightly greased rack in a roasting pan and bake for 2 hours or until a meat thermometer inserted into the thickest portion registers 140º F. Remove lamb from pan; cover loosely with aluminum foil and let stand 10 minutes before slicing.
4) Keep the oven to roast the potatoes.

Potatoes are a natural pairing with the lamb. So, while the lamb is resting, toss the potatoes in to roast.

Rosemary Fingering Potatoes

Ingredients:
2 pounds fingerling potatoes
1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary
2 tablespoons olive oil
salt and pepper

Directions:
1) Wash and dry the potatoes. To cook evenly, the potatoes should be uniform in size. Slice the potatoes so that each piece is roughly an inch thick.
2) Toss the potatoes with the rosemary and olive oil and spread in a single layer in a large roasting pan. Season with salt and pepper.
3) Roast for 20 - 25 minutes.

While the potatoes roast and the lamb rests, blanch the haricots vert (fancy name for pencil-thin green beans).

Haricots Vert
Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Add the green beans (about 1 pound) and cook for 4 to 5 minutes. Drain and rinse in cold water immediately. This will stop the cooking process and keep the beans bright green and slightly crisp.

This dessert that follows can be made in advance and chilled in the refrigerator until ready to serve. It also freezes well, if you happen to have any left over.

Strawberry Rhubarb Compote

Ingredients:
2 pounds fresh rhubarb, cleaned and sliced into 1”thick pieces.
1 cup vanilla sugar*
1 pint fresh strawberries, rinsed and hulled

Directions:
1) Preheat oven to 350º F.
2) Toss rhubarb pieces with the vanilla sugar. Pour into a large Pyrex dish and cover with foil. Bake for one hour.
3) Remove from oven and stir in strawberries. Cover and let cool.
4) Pour a few tablespoons of compote over small bowls of vanilla ice cream for the perfect ending to a perfect meal.
* Fill a 2 cup jar with sugar and a whole vanilla bean. The bean will infuse the sugar with its flavor. Keep adding sugar to the jar as you use it to renew your supply.

In my book, nothing beats a refrigerator stocked with great leftovers. Knowing how to use them will ensure your efforts (and food!) don’t go to waste:
• Make a tasty salad of butter lettuces with sliced lamb and potatoes and haricots vert – very Mediterranean with a lemon herb vinaigrette and feta cheese.
• Try lamb sandwiches on crusty ciabatta, slathered with mayonnaise that’s been kicked up with a little freshly grated horseradish or some traditional mint jelly.
• Put together a rustic Greek potato salad with roasted potatoes, tossed with some fresh feta, cherry tomatoes and chopped Kalamata olives.
• Use any leftover compote as a topping for Saturday morning waffles or swirled into yogurt for a quick smoothie.

Knockout Punch, via Garden & Gun

2010-06-09T12:08:00.004-05:00

This is from Garden & Gun's Good Eats which arrived via email today. You know, I think I'd like to be a "Southern libation expert" when I grow up...

"Once relegated to cheesy weddings and bridge parties, the venerable punch bowl is making a comeback, showing up on trendy bar tops from New York to South Beach. And since we’re suckers for anything bourbon related, we were particularly excited to try out a recipe for a concoction called Bourbon Slush from the new book Porch Parties, by Southern libation expert Denise Gee. This particular punch—a mix of citrus juice, bourbon, and dark tea—was a favorite in Gee’s hometown of Natchez, Mississippi. Quick, easy, and dangerously refreshing (trust us, we tried it), it’s the perfect addition to a party at the end of a long, hot summer day—or any other day as far as we’re concerned.

Bourbon Slush
Serves 16–18

6 cups water
2 cups strong tea
2 cups bourbon
1 cup sugar
One 6-ounce container frozen orange juice concentrate, thawed
One 6-ounce container frozen lemon juice concentrate, thawed
Garnish: Mint sprigs or lemon slices (optional)

Combine the water, tea, bourbon, sugar, orange and lemon juice concentrate in a large container or bowl, and mix until sugar dissolves. Pour into two gallon-size freezer bags. Freeze until an hour before serving. Place the frozen punch in a large bowl and let thaw, breaking up every 15 minutes. When punch is melted, add more ice or water as desired. Serve in punch cups. Garnish, if desired.

Strong Tea
2 cups water
1 family-size or 4 regular tea bags

Boil the water. Add the tea bag(s) and let steep until cool. Discard the tea bag(s) and set aside."

Gifts from the Freezer God – Lamb Meatballs

2010-06-03T19:56:00.005-05:00

I think I may have mentioned before how lazy I am. I am a lazy lover of good food. So, when I get the urge to cook, it’s nice to have my efforts pay off in future meals. Sometimes it’s the casserole you make for the neighbor with a newborn, or the meatloaf or banana bread recipe everyone loves. You know that doubling the work you do today has big dividends.

We call these meals “Gifts from the Freezer God.”

Last night was one such meal. It started back in January with that month’s issue of Bon Appetit magazine. The cover story on meatballs had me going and I immediately tackled two of them: pork meatballs for Banh Mi and lamb meatballs for Lamb Kofte with Yogurt Sauce and Muhammara.

Here is the link to the original recipe: http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/Lamb-Kofte-with-Yogurt-Sauce-and-Muhammara-356770

I doubled the ingredients for the meat balls and formed them as the directions instructed. I placed the half I wanted to freeze on a cookie sheet lined with Reynolds Release aluminum foil. Once frozen, I transferred them to a heavy-duty Ziploc bag and labeled it with not only the contents but the magazine issue the recipe came from. I knew I would want to recreate the accompaniments with each recipe and would totally forget where I’d put the original.

As the lamb meatballs were a little spicy for Jack and Amanda, I marinated and grilled some lamb stew meat for them. I grilled some naan (purchased at Whole Foods Market) and slathered on some Cedar’s Tzatziki (again, courtesy of Whole Foods Market) and dinner was ready. I did spend a little extra time making the muhammara called for in the original recipe. A blend of roasted red peppers and pomegranate molasses, muhammara provides a tart foil to the soothing cool of the yogurt-based tzatziki.

So, this is the picture that ran with the original article:
And here is my rendition, some six months later:
Not a bad gift from the freezer gods!

Marinade for Lamb Stew Meat
Combine 1/4 cup lemon juice and 1/4 cup red wine vinegar. Stir in a couple cloves crushed garlic and a few tablespoons of chopped fresh herbs (rosemary, oregano, basil). Whisk briskly while drizzling in 1/2 cup olive oil. Add lamb and marinate for 30 minutes, or until grill is hot. Drain and discard excess marinade.

Happy eating y’all!